Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Jim Okel, Tom Howard
Page Views: 2,857 total · 22/month
Shared By: Jake Jones on Mar 23, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start in a left-facing dihedral in an alcove. The dihedral butts into a roof, smear and stem to get to the lip, still following the now horizontal dihedral, then pull the roof and follow the mainly finger-sized crack to the anchors. This is one of the many high quality 5.10 gear lines of Beauty Mountain. On par with Burning Calves, and Wham Bam. This route is prone to getting the rope stuck after pulling the roof. Just drop a large stopper at the lip of the roof, and don't clip it. This keeps the rope out of the crack pretty well.

Location

Upstream and around the corner (to climber's right) from Burning Calves. You'll turn the corner and walk slightly downhill, then back up- it's hard to miss. A pretty distinct route.

Protection

Nuts, finger and hand-sized cams up to 2". Bolted anchor.

Photos

Andrew G
San Diego, CA
 
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
 
pulling the roof may be the crux, but the final finger crack stays at you. make sure to protect it well enough that you don't slam into the lip of the roof if you fall. i can attest that doing so is a bad time.

despite my woes, i still thought this was an absolutely fantastic pitch of climbing. Apr 16, 2018