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Routes in Burning Buttress

Blue Brains T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Broken Sling T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Burning Calves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chorus Line T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
East Meets West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grace Note S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Hands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rod Serling Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ruchert Motion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spiderwand T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sportster, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Steve Martin's Face T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stuck in Another Direction T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Will To Power, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Jim Okel, Tom Howard
Page Views: 2,600 total · 22/month
Shared By: Jake Jones on Mar 23, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start in a left-facing dihedral in an alcove. The dihedral butts into a roof, smear and stem to get to the lip, still following the now horizontal dihedral, then pull the roof and follow the mainly finger-sized crack to the anchors. This is one of the many high quality 5.10 gear lines of Beauty Mountain. On par with Burning Calves, and Wham Bam. This route is prone to getting the rope stuck after pulling the roof. Just drop a large stopper at the lip of the roof, and don't clip it. This keeps the rope out of the crack pretty well.

Location

Upstream and around the corner (to climber's right) from Burning Calves. You'll turn the corner and walk slightly downhill, then back up- it's hard to miss. A pretty distinct route.

Protection

Nuts, finger and hand-sized cams up to 2". Bolted anchor.

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