Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Cal Swoager, Ed McCarthy 1985
Page Views: 805 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on Jun 15, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

A nice route that saves its crux for the top after you run out of gear options. Unlike most gear routes here, the crack stops at about 3/4 height. Make sure you use those horizontals to get more pro in before going for the top. Even so, a pitch from the top is a long ride!

Location

Small corner between Happy Hands and Spiderwand.

Protection

One of everything. Bolted anchor.

Photos

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  5.10a
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  5.10a
  • *Onsite spoiler alert**

There is a perfect 0.75 C4 placement to protect the top crux of the route. It's a deep, vertically oriented "cats eye" pod at head height when you're standing on the horizontal you mention as your last gear placement. If you get that piece this is a G rated route, if you miss it or already used your 0.75, you're looking at a big whip. Jun 26, 2017