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Routes in Burning Buttress

Blue Brains T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Broken Sling T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Burning Calves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chorus Line T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
East Meets West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grace Note S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Hands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rod Serling Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ruchert Motion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spiderwand T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sportster, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Steve Martin's Face T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stuck in Another Direction T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Will To Power, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Doug Reed (1990)
Page Views: 861 total, 12/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Apr 9, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

The sportser gives you a glimpse into old school sport climbing. Dead vertical with relentless edging, this route features a nasty crux, with the opportunity to take some legitimate whippers. It’s hard to imagine that sport climbing originated from routes like this, and easy to understand why routes of this style have lost their popularity. Legend has it that "Old Master," Porter Jarrard, emerged briefly from the backwoods of West Virginia, for a repeat of the route in 2010. Hanging the draws on his first attempt, many years after his initial ascent, he was able to manage a redpoint. Don’t expect any magic like this for yourself. This route, especially the crux, is likely to mow you down your first time up it.

The first three bolts of edging and high stepping on tiny crimps lead to a rest at the fourth bolt. Lay back some decent holds and step sequentially past the fourth bolt and then bear down on a couple more tiny crimps before reaching a resting position at the fifth bolt. The V7 technical crux awaits you. Do a frontal highstep onto a small edge at belly button height, grab a vertical potato chip sized side pull well above your head, and try to stand up as high as possible before your finger tips are severed off. Recklessly grab a right hand edge and get ready for more hideous crimps.

One more redpoint crux awaits you a bolt below the anchors. Don’t blow it here because you'll never want to have to pull the technical crux again.

This route gets morning shade and also retains shade through the afternoon if leaves are on the tree. Give it a try. The route is actually quite enjoyable excluding the awkward crux, which will only appeal to masochists and those that are too strong to consider this a difficult move.

Location

Look for a white face climb in the middle of the burning buttress, right where the buttress makes a 90 degree turn.

Protection

8 bolts + anchor

Photos

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