Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft|
|FA:||Doug Reed (1990)|
|Page Views:||1,356 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Fred Gomez on Apr 9, 2012|
|Admins:||Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones|
The first three bolts of edging and high stepping on tiny crimps lead to a rest at the fourth bolt. Lay back some decent holds and step sequentially past the fourth bolt and then bear down on a couple more tiny crimps before reaching a resting position at the fifth bolt. The V7 technical crux awaits you. Do a frontal highstep onto a small edge at belly button height, grab a vertical potato chip sized side pull well above your head, and try to stand up as high as possible before your finger tips are severed off. Recklessly grab a right hand edge and get ready for more hideous crimps.
One more redpoint crux awaits you a bolt below the anchors. Don't blow it here because you'll never want to have to pull the technical crux again.
This route gets morning shade and also retains shade through the afternoon if leaves are on the tree. Give it a try. The route is actually quite enjoyable excluding the awkward crux, which will only appeal to masochists and those that are too strong to consider this a difficult move.