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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> New River Gorge…
> Beauty Mountain
> 7) Thunder Buttress
Gun Club
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.9 from 14
votes
Routes in 7) Thunder Buttress
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Backlash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Beast in Me, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Beauty Shop S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Concertina S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gun Club S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gun Control T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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L.S.D. T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Let's Make A Deal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Loud Noise S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Momma's Squeeze Box T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mushrooms T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Right Son of Thunder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Screamer Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stabat Mater S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Super Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Transcendence S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Windbag T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Brooke Sandahl, April 1989 |
| Page Views: | 5,835 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | Joseph DeGaetano on Mar 20, 2013 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
This long face climb climbs a super prominent buttress overlooking the New River Gorge, with the classic Supercrack (5.9) to its right and the new school trad headpoint Gun Control (13c) to the left. The only thing that mars Gun Club is that many folks consider its aggrevating crux– with delicate feet and sequential holds– to be the least pleasant part of the climb. It is also possible (if you wish to be subjected to justifiable ridicule) to take the "Gun Show Loophole" and traverse over to Supercrack, avoiding the entire crux. Above the crux is glorious 11+ climbing that will keep you pumped and thinking.
On a historical side note, Dan Osman soloed this ultra-insecure route in 1991. The story goes that Dan worked the crux on a short leash, never really dialing in the sequence perfectly. The next day, with friends and cameras in tow, he set out to solo the climb. Maybe the sun drenched wall, maybe his nerves, or perhaps the reality and severity of such a serious solo got the best of him, and he began to verbally doubt himself, telling his buddies that he wasn't sure he wanted to go through with it while hanging out at the sun-drenched stance just below the crux. After being encouraged not to go for it and to climb back down, the sun went behind a cloud, Danno fired the crux, and took the free solo to the top.
On a historical side note, Dan Osman soloed this ultra-insecure route in 1991. The story goes that Dan worked the crux on a short leash, never really dialing in the sequence perfectly. The next day, with friends and cameras in tow, he set out to solo the climb. Maybe the sun drenched wall, maybe his nerves, or perhaps the reality and severity of such a serious solo got the best of him, and he began to verbally doubt himself, telling his buddies that he wasn't sure he wanted to go through with it while hanging out at the sun-drenched stance just below the crux. After being encouraged not to go for it and to climb back down, the sun went behind a cloud, Danno fired the crux, and took the free solo to the top.
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