Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: N. Brash, C. Basham, 1980
Page Views: 13,303 total · 93/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Apr 20, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


119 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

One of the very best climbs of the grade at the New. Continuously difficult. Use longer slings at the bottom roof to avoid rope drag higher up. Save your strength and #1 and #2 cams for the crux up top. Some spectacular whippers from the very last moves have been seen.

Location

Just to the right of the yellow face with the bolted Gun Club there's a corner with a prominent crack in it. This is the climb.

Protection

Small and hand size cams, and a set of nuts provide excellent pro. Bolted anchor.

Photos

This route shares the anchors with Gun Club and can be rapped to the base with a 60m meter rope. I did it with an old, shrunken rope yesterday. Just make sure you tie a knot on the ends of the rope, it's close. Oct 17, 2016
Andrew G
San Diego, CA
  5.9
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
  5.9
have you ever hopped on new yosemite and thought "that was really fun, but i wish it were 3 times longer"? if so, then you're probably gonna have a real good time on super crack. Apr 16, 2018
Pat Light
Charlottesville, VA
 
Pat Light   Charlottesville, VA
 
Spectacular route. Solid at the grade. Long and sustained, but no single move above 5.9. Some beta follows, to account for the slight dearth of it here:

Gear: You could place damned near everything on your rack at some point on this climb. A full rack of singles is probably fine; a bunch of #2s is definitely fine. If you're short on hand sized gear, bring up a #4 and you can toss it in midway up. A 70m makes it very comfortable;
if you have a 60m, tie stoppers and be careful.
Safety: It's all easily protectable (gear every 18 inches if you want it), but the bottom section is a little heads-up, with interesting 3-dimensional climbing directly above a boulder jumble. Be cool.

Style: I mildly disagree with the above comment about New Yosemite. There are sections of mandatory hand jamming on Supercrack, but it's not nearly the high-quality, nigh-textbook parallel crack that New Yosemite boasts. You can layback, stem, jug-haul, and high-step your way up huge sections of it if you'd like, and several thin or wide sections spit you out of the crack in favor of classic NRG corner climbing. It's quite varied, which only adds to the quality.

Good stuff. Get on it! Sep 30, 2018