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Routes in Thunder Buttress

Backlash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beast in Me, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Concertina S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gun Club S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
L.S.D. T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Make A Deal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Loud Noise S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Momma's Squeeze Box T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mushrooms T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Son of Thunder T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Screamer Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Transcendence S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad
FA: N. Brash, C. Basham, 1980
Page Views: 11,686 total, 91/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Apr 20, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

One of the very best climbs of the grade at the New. Continuously difficult. Use longer slings at the bottom roof to avoid rope drag higher up. Save your strength and #1 and #2 cams for the crux up top. Some spectacular whippers from the very last moves have been seen.

Location

Just to the right of the yellow face with the bolted Gun Club there's a corner with a prominent crack in it. This is the climb.

Protection

Small and hand size cams, and a set of nuts provide excellent pro. Bolted anchor.
Matthew K
Charlottesville, VA
 
Matthew K   Charlottesville, VA
 
This route shares the anchors with Gun Club and can be rapped to the base with a 60m meter rope. I did it with an old, shrunken rope yesterday. Just make sure you tie a knot on the ends of the rope, it's close. Oct 17, 2016
Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
 
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
 
A single 70m will get you down to your packs. A 60m will not. You will need to rap to the ledge by the start of Transcendence and walk back around. This climb is roughly 120ft. Anchors are up and left after you mantle up on the ledge. Very nice to have a BD 1 & 2 for the top. Oct 28, 2015