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> 7) Thunder Buttress
Concertina
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.9 from 32 votes
Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Doug Reed, Bob Rentka 1990 |
Page Views: | 3,815 total · 28/month |
Shared By: | Fred Gomez on Sep 17, 2013 · Updates |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Concertina is a hidden classic. When viewing it from the ground it's evident that it has good rock, but what you cant see is its wild selection of handholds. Get on this route to experience a truly unique blend of bubbly pocket jugs and tiny positive sidepulls. The climbing is close to vertical which allows for some improbable balancy moves. Numerous cruxes pop up on this route with the final one coming at the last bolt. At this point decide whether to go left or right and then hang on for the remaining easy runout to the chains. A positive attitude and a good brain will prove to be your greatest assets on this thinking mans route.
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