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> The New River G…
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> Beauty Mountain
> Thunder Buttress
Momma's Squeeze Box
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.5 from 14
votes
Routes in Thunder Buttress
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Backlash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Beast in Me, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Concertina S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gun Club S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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L.S.D. T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Let's Make A Deal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Loud Noise S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Momma's Squeeze Box T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mushrooms T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Right Son of Thunder T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Screamer Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Super Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Transcendence S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft |
| FA: | Tom Howard, Bill Newman 1981 |
| Page Views: | 1,713 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Sep 25, 2007 |
| Admins: | Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Writing in chalk
Details
Please stop putting the dreaded "X", "Bees" or "Snake" on the rock faces. Please be smart and conscious of others.
Stop putting tick marks on the rock unless you are going to brush them off when you are done on the route. This goes against the ethic of the area and in the eyes of the locals is the same as graffiti. Rock climbing is an outdoor sport and guess what lives outdoors? That's right, bees, wasps, snakes, and even bears! We all know they exist, no reason to write it on the walls.
Stop putting tick marks on the rock unless you are going to brush them off when you are done on the route. This goes against the ethic of the area and in the eyes of the locals is the same as graffiti. Rock climbing is an outdoor sport and guess what lives outdoors? That's right, bees, wasps, snakes, and even bears! We all know they exist, no reason to write it on the walls.
Description
This route is a great intro for offwidth climbing. Climb the squeeze chimney to the top. It can be a bit dirty inside, but this does not really affect the climbing. About 20 Ft. below the top, there are several variations to the finish as the crack split to the right or straight up. Straight up appears to be the easiest finish, with very large gear for protection. The right crack can be made more difficult by exiting the chimney at the first opportunity(G gear).
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