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Routes in Thunder Buttress

Backlash S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beast in Me, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Concertina S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gun Club S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
L.S.D. T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Make A Deal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Loud Noise S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Momma's Squeeze Box T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mushrooms T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Son of Thunder T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Screamer Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Transcendence S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Phil Wilt, Ed McCarthy 1983
Page Views: 1,851 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 18, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is a great crack climb. I would recommend this for someone breaking into the 5.10 grade as the gear is good and the crux is low to the ground. Start by climbing a thin finger crack. Continue up the crack as it widens to hand size. There are several really good holds in the crack as you proceed. The top can be a bit dirty depending on the time of year and recent rains.

Location

Just to the right of Screamer Crack. Around the corner heading upstream from Supercrack.

Protection

Nuts for the start, hand size pieces for the rest. Shuts at the top.

Photos

I agree with Steck on this being a good route for the entry level 5.10 leader. The bottom is the crux and protects wonderfully with a .75 camalot or equivalent. The climb gets significantly easier after the bottom boulder problem and protection is abundant the whole way to the chains. Great route. Apr 17, 2017
JoshL  
I agree with Ed. The bottom 10 feet can definitely get your heart pumping. Dec 1, 2015
Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
 
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
 
This climb never gets to hand size. There may be 3 or 4 hand jams total. Lots of wires and small cams. This climb is fairly sustained. I wouldn't recommend it to a first time 5-10 leader. Oct 28, 2015

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