Windbag

This route is a tribute to my mother. Psych! Although, now that I think of it I can kind of remember my deadbeat dad using that term to describe somebody when I was young. I wonder who that was?! LOL

Windbag is an alternate finish to Concertina, adding a sweeping, traditionally protected line that weaves into the beautiful upper half of the wall. Since both of the adjacent routes are references to bellows-related instruments, I figured the name would fit. It also gives me an opportunity to once again poke fun at myself and the “spraylord” archetype related to the posting of any of one’s “accomplishments”. The idea for the route was presented to me by Pat Goodman. He spied the line years ago but was too busy with other, more worthy routes such as Thundering Herd and Gun Control. He passed it off to me and I was proud to send it on my birthday with him perched above snapping a few iPhone photos for posterity’s sake. 

Start on Concertina, departing right along the huge jug rail after clipping the fifth bolt with a long sling. Once the traverse is a wrap, load up some gear and dispense with the somewhat-moderate moves above that lead to the crux at the very top of the headwall: a sequence of moves with hooded crimps and a finale slimper hold that gives way to some jugs and the top-out. There are several holds on this route that are some of the coolest I’ve found in a while, one of which is an index finger pencil sharpener that would be terribly fierce if you had to pull on it any harder. 

As with so many of the routes that I’ve done in my life, a highlight of this one was having great friends with me to celebrate a beautiful day at one of the best pieces of stone in the world. Unfortunately though my amazing girlfriend who supported me throughout the process wasn’t able to make it because she was too busy preparing an awesome party to celebrate. Thanks babe! 

Start up Concertina, venturing out right after clipping the fifth bolt.