Elevation: 1,979 ft
GPS: 38.055, -81.033 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 21,009 total · 131/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on May 18, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details
Access Issue: COVID 19 UPDATE: PLEASE FOLLOW THE ADVICE OF THE ACCESS FUND, AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB, NRAC, AND OTHERS BY NOT COMING TO THE NRG DURING THIS HEALTH CRISIS Details

Description

The Brain area is the first major area of the Beauty Mountain cliffline you will pass on the hike in, a few minutes after hopping across the boulders of Short Creek. It includes the Brain proper, a protruding, undercut buttress of moderate sport and trad lines. Right of the Brain itself, the sport lines become harder, and around the corner of Chunky Monkey (12b) is the New River Gorge's most concentrated lineup of 5.14 routes, including Mono Loco, Picket Fence, and Super Whiny Bugs. Both the moderate and hard areas are characterized by more blank rock down low, and vertically featured runnels up high.

Getting There

Take the steep trail on the left (the one with the sign) from the gravel road. Keeping the rock to your left, travel upstream, cross Short Creek and follow the trail. The Brain will be the first chunk of clean, climbable rock you encounter.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at 3) The Brain

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