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Routes in 3) The Brain

Brain Storm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brain Teasers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brain Tweezers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brain Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Butta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chunky Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Climax Control S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Journey to the Center of the Brain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
M.E.N.S.A. S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mono Loco S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mulatto Serpent S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Out of Mind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Whiny Bugs S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Travisty, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Whiny Bugs S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
You Want It, You Got It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Joe Crocker, Porter Jarrard
Page Views: 2,020 total · 18/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 22, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Stick clip the high first bolt from the top of the boulder. Although this route only has 4 bolts, they are well placed and right where you want them. Start by climbing up the face between the boulder and the wall linking very positive holds all the way to the 2nd bolt. From here, head up and right a bit as the wall gets steeper and then back a bit left to clip the 3rd bolt. From here, you can pick the grade of the route. If you head out left along the really nice holds and traverse back right to the 4th bolt, it's 5.11d. If you head straight up, aiming for a side pull out right and avoiding the large holds way out left, it's 5.12a. From the 4th bolt, it's nothing but jugs to the anchor.

Some folks start the route from on top of the boulder...but this skips a couple nice moves.

Location

This is the first bolted line on the gray wall perpendicular to the Brain Wall as you pass Brain Tweezers, 5.10b. It's just to the right of the dirty corner, Bearpaw Crack, 5.8.

Protection

4 bolts, shuts.

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