All Locations > W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Beauty Mountain > 3) The Brain

Mensa

Name: Mensa
Rating: 3.2

5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in 3) The Brain

L › R R › L A › Z

	Brain Storm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Brain Teasers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Brain Tweezers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Brain Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Butta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Chunky Monkey S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Climax Control S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Dancing in the Flesh S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Hot Flash T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Journey to the Center of the Brain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Mandrill, The S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
	Mensa S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Mono Loco S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Out of Mind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Picket Fence S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
	Redacted by Mountainproject S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Super Whiny Bugs S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Travisty, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Whiny Bugs S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	You Want It, You Got It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS:	38.05452, -81.03346
FA:	Porter Jarrard, Joe Crocker 1989
Page Views:	4,224 total · 21/month
Shared By:	Jeremy Steck on Sep 22, 2009 · Updates
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS. Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

Stick clip the high first bolt from the top of the boulder. Although this route only has 4 bolts, they are well placed and right where you want them. Start by climbing up the face between the boulder and the wall linking very positive holds all the way to the 2nd bolt. From here, head up and right a bit as the wall gets steeper and then back a bit left to clip the 3rd bolt. From here, you can pick the grade of the route. If you head out left along the really nice holds and traverse back right to the 4th bolt, it's 5.11d. If you head straight up, aiming for a side pull out right and avoiding the large holds way out left, it's 5.12a. From the 4th bolt, it's nothing but jugs to the anchor.

Some folks start the route from on top of the boulder...but this skips a couple nice moves.

Location

This is the first bolted line on the gray wall perpendicular to the Brain Wall as you pass Brain Tweezers, 5.10b. It's just to the right of the dirty corner, Bearpaw Crack, 5.8.