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Routes in 3) The Brain

Brain Storm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brain Teasers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brain Tweezers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brain Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Butta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chunky Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Climax Control S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Journey to the Center of the Brain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
M.E.N.S.A. S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mono Loco S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mulatto Serpent S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Out of Mind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Whiny Bugs S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Travisty, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Whiny Bugs S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
You Want It, You Got It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport
FA: Mike Williams
Page Views: 145 total · 10/month
Shared By: ChrisHau on Jul 17, 2017
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Begin with a deceptively difficult and shouldery boulder that deposits you on a resting ledge.

When ready, blast up a few bolts on the overhanging headwall as the holds and feet get progressively worse. The second crux involves a sequence-crucial series of good but agonizingly painful pockets, ending with a final long move to a ledge. The climb ends at the last bolt, due to the clipping hold for the true anchors breaking.

A true exercise in pain tolerance for the more zen among us. Perfect for those who enjoy a casual stroll on some hot coals or a nap on a bed of nails.

Location

Just right of Mono Loco (5.14a). Boulder problem start marked by a flake crimp at around head height.

Protection

Bolts to two-bolt anchor (but lower from last bolt or call up the stick). A roll of tape for each finger.

Photos

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Realistically, I did the first ascent of this route although I am hesitant to claim credit as the line still does not reach the top of the wall. I bolted this rig in the early 90s and sent up to what used to be a huge jug/flake. Someone (Mike WIlliams?) came along at a later date and added anchors at the flake. It was my intention to take this line all the way up the wall and it was clear that you would need to move either right or left at the flake. Without significant cleaning (tons of lichen above the flake), I wasn't sure where the line would go and ran out of time (and talent). Both Harrison Dekkar and I climbed up to the flake but not in perfect style (I think I fell at the crux undercling, lowered and climbed to the location of the current anchors without first pulling the rope. I believe Harrison sent on TR through the last bolt). We weren't trying to redpoint because, in our eyes, this would have been like redpointing to the 8th bolt on a 12 bolt route (I'm going from memory on the approximate number of bolts). I heard that the jug broke making it almost impossible to clip the current anchors. I would love to have someone take this route to the top of the cliff and make a legitimate claim of a FA!!! As an aside, I caught tons of flak from some talent-less locals that objected when I comfortized the crux undercling - what used to be the most painful pocket on an already sharp climb. Notably, they never even tried the climb. Jun 15, 2018

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