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Routes in The Brain

Brain Storm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brain Teasers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brain Tweezers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brain Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Butta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chunky Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Climax Control S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Journey to the Center of the Brain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
M.E.N.S.A. S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mono Loco S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mulatto Serpent S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Out of Mind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Whiny Bugs S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Travisty, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Whiny Bugs S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
You Want It, You Got It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Harrison Dekker & Porter Jarrard, 1990
Page Views: 2,765 total · 25/month
Shared By: Will Hinckley on May 1, 2009 with updates
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This area classic just around the corner from the Brain will requires 5.12 technique, power, and endurance; it's amazing!

Begin with devious slab moves (stickclip recommended) to get established under the steep section of the wall. From here, precision deadpoints, heel hooks, and a bit of go-for-it will get you to a shake on jugs below the final roof. Although the rock gets much more featured at the final headwall, it's not over yet.

Location

Just around the corner to the right of the Brain/MENSA area.

Protection

8 bolts with bolted anchor on the top. Consider stick clipping the first bolt.

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