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Routes in The Brain

Brain Storm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brain Teasers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brain Tweezers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brain Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Butta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chunky Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Climax Control S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Journey to the Center of the Brain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
M.E.N.S.A. S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mono Loco S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mulatto Serpent S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Out of Mind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Whiny Bugs S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Travisty, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Whiny Bugs S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
You Want It, You Got It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jim Suffecool, Mike Stewart, 1997
Page Views: 623 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 22, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Stick clipping the first bolt is recommended. Start on the orange arete and work your way up to a large hold on the arete. From here, find a way to get yourself up to the point where the arete bulges out, looking for a good hold out right to make the next clip (crux). From here, head up and to the left side of the arete to reach a crack system and a good stance. The climbing from this point on is probably 5.10d. Continue up the crack system and follow the holds out right to reach a flake under the roof. Undercling your way out right to the edge of the arete to a great stance. Climb straight up the arete and traverse back left on to the face to pass the last bolt and up to the anchors.

Location

This route begins on the arete to the left of the start for Chunky Monkey, 5.12b. From M.E.N.S.A, continue along the cliff,away from the Brain until you reach an arete.

Protection

7 bolts, shuts.

Photos

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Brad Leneis
  5.11d
Brad Leneis  
  5.11d
As mentioned in the guidebook, grabbing the first draw and yarding through slick V4/V5 crux makes this a nice, non-tweaky 5.11a. A long draw is nice on the bolt above the roof. Nov 10, 2014