Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Gus Glitch, 1991?
Page Views: 277 total · 22/month
Shared By: Pnelson on Nov 27, 2017
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This route has quite an interesting history. Established in 1991, it may have been the NRG's first 5.14, and possibly one of the first of the grade in the East. However, the FA Gus Glitch was not popular with the regular NRG crew of climbers and developers. After this line was bolted by Doug Reed and declared impossible, Glitch took the challenge to send it in the face of all the "whiny bug" climbers who complained about conditions and uncomfortable holds.

Most folks for years believed that Glitch did not climb the route. However, in recent years it has been repeated (by Mike Williams, Alex Megos, and Steven Roth), and some believe that Glitch did send the route.

Regardless, start on the challenging opening Whiny Bugs (12b), before moving left under the first roof. Sustained climbing will take you up to a low percentage crux involving sharp crimps, a terrible pinch, and bad feet.

Note: in November, 2017, Steven Roth led this on gear!

Location

Left of Whiny Bugs (12b), right of Picket Fence (14a)

Protection

bolts to anchors.

Photos

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Pnelson

  5.14a
Pnelson    
  5.14a
Clarification: I've not climbed this route apart from its start, but have belayed it, and felt it needed to be included on mountainproject just to document its place in NRG history. Nov 27, 2017