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Routes in 3) The Brain

Brain Storm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brain Teasers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brain Tweezers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brain Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Butta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chunky Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Climax Control S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Journey to the Center of the Brain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
M.E.N.S.A. S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mono Loco S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mulatto Serpent S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Out of Mind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Whiny Bugs S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Travisty, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Whiny Bugs S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
You Want It, You Got It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Gus Glitch, 1991?
Page Views: 190 total · 28/month
Shared By: Pnelson on Nov 27, 2017
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This route has quite an interesting history. Established in 1991, it may have been the NRG's first 5.14, and possibly one of the first of the grade in the East. However, the FA Gus Glitch was not popular with the regular NRG crew of climbers and developers. After this line was bolted by Doug Reed and declared impossible, Glitch took the challenge to send it in the face of all the "whiny bug" climbers who complained about conditions and uncomfortable holds.

Most folks for years believed that Glitch did not climb the route. However, in recent years it has been repeated (by Mike Williams, Alex Megos, and Steven Roth), and some believe that Glitch did send the route.

Regardless, start on the challenging opening Whiny Bugs (12b), before moving left under the first roof. Sustained climbing will take you up to a low percentage crux involving sharp crimps, a terrible pinch, and bad feet.

Note: in November, 2017, Steven Roth led this on gear!

Location [Suggest Change]

Left of Whiny Bugs (12b), right of Picket Fence (14a)

Protection [Suggest Change]

bolts to anchors.

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Pnelson

 
Pnelson    
 
Clarification: I've not climbed this route apart from its start, but have belayed it, and felt it needed to be included on mountainproject just to document its place in NRG history. Nov 27, 2017

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