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Routes in 3) The Brain
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Brain Storm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Brain Teasers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brain Tweezers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Brain Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Butta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Chunky Monkey S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Climax Control S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Hot Flash T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Journey to the Center of the Brain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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M.E.N.S.A. S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mandrill, The S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Mono Loco S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Out of Mind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Picket Fence S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Redacted by Mountainproject S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Super Whiny Bugs S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Travisty, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Whiny Bugs S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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You Want It, You Got It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Gus Glitch, 1991? |
| Page Views: | 1,595 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Pnelson on Nov 27, 2017 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
This route has quite an interesting history. Established in 1991, it may have been the NRG's first 5.14, and possibly one of the first of the grade in the East. However, the FA Gus Glitch was not popular with the regular NRG crew of climbers and developers. After this line was bolted by Doug Reed and declared impossible, Glitch took the challenge to send it in the face of all the "whiny bug" climbers who complained about conditions and uncomfortable holds.
Most folks for years believed that Glitch did not climb the route. However, in recent years it has been repeated (by Mike Williams, Alex Megos, and Steven Roth), and some believe that Glitch did send the route.
Regardless, start on the challenging opening Whiny Bugs (12b), before moving left under the first roof. Sustained climbing will take you up to a low percentage crux involving sharp crimps, a terrible pinch, and bad feet.
Note: in November, 2017, Steven Roth led this on gear!
Most folks for years believed that Glitch did not climb the route. However, in recent years it has been repeated (by Mike Williams, Alex Megos, and Steven Roth), and some believe that Glitch did send the route.
Regardless, start on the challenging opening Whiny Bugs (12b), before moving left under the first roof. Sustained climbing will take you up to a low percentage crux involving sharp crimps, a terrible pinch, and bad feet.
Note: in November, 2017, Steven Roth led this on gear!
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