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Redacted by Mountainproject
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 2.6 from 5
votes
Routes in 3) The Brain
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Brain Storm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Brain Teasers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brain Tweezers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Brain Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Butta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Chunky Monkey S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Climax Control S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Dancing in the Flesh S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hot Flash T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Journey to the Center of the Brain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mandrill, The S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Mensa S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mono Loco S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Out of Mind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Picket Fence S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Redacted by Mountainproject S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Super Whiny Bugs S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Travisty, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Whiny Bugs S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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You Want It, You Got It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 38.05452, -81.03346 |
| FA: | Mikey Williams |
| Page Views: | 2,012 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Joseph DeGaetano on Jun 15, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS.
Details
Description
This is the last route before you scramble up and over the little hill heading towards the Genocide area.
Although it isn't much to look at from the bottom, this 7 bolt sport climb is damn good and requires a bag of tricks to reach the anchors. This would be a proud onsight being that the climbing is deceiving and not straight forward.
Start by climbing up a detached flake to reach the first bolt and the base of the chossy roof. Clip the two roof bolts while staying as efficient as possible and be ready to engineer a powerful mantle move to establish on the face. Rest up for a second and get ready for the real climbing. Slabby ninja moves for the next three bolts guard the anchor. Suck that gut in, hope for a slight breeze, and curse the extra slice of pizza you ate last night and you might just make out better than Ole' Homer Plessy.
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