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Routes in 3) The Brain
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Brain Storm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Brain Teasers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brain Tweezers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Brain Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Butta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Chunky Monkey S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Climax Control S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Hot Flash T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Journey to the Center of the Brain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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M.E.N.S.A. S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mandrill, The S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Mono Loco S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Out of Mind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Picket Fence S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Redacted by Mountainproject S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Super Whiny Bugs S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Travisty, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Whiny Bugs S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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You Want It, You Got It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Harrison Dekker, 1991 |
| Page Views: | 2,341 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Joseph DeGaetano on Mar 24, 2013 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
Description
Although this route doesn't look too stunning from the ground, what it lacks in aesthetics it makes up for in movement. A V3 boulder problem start to some easier climbing will bring you to the infamous "mono" crux move. Engineer a way to make this move without wrecking your tendons and continue fighting your way to the next clip.
Once you're established about level with a short dihedral to the left, you've got several options. The original line avoided the pockets (that were filled in at the time) and traversed right, this is the where the original grade of hard 13c was FA'd by Harrison Dekker. Few people use this original beta. Many folks now head directly up and establish on the headwall and move towards the dihedral, taking this climb down to 13a/b. Another option is to rack up a few cams and head up the dihedral to the top via the "tradgedy" dihedral. I believe this is around 13a.
Getting established on the vertical wall right of the dihedral is quite cruxy with a pump and is most definitely the redpoint/onsight crux, but with good beta a mere mortal can pull off this entrance exam to the wall's harder climbs. 2 more bolts of long lockoffs will get you to the anchors.
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