Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Harrison Dekker, 1991
Page Views: 1,080 total · 14/month
Shared By: Joseph DeGaetano on Mar 24, 2013
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

Description

Although this route doesn't look too stunning from the ground, what it lacks in aesthetics it makes up for in movement. A V3 boulder problem start to some easier climbing will bring you to the infamous "mono" crux move. Engineer a way to make this move without wrecking your tendons and continue fighting your way to the next clip.

Once you're established about level with a short dihedral to the left, you've got several options. The original line went right on moves that are hard 13c; few people use this original beta. Many folks now head directly up and establish on the headwall and move towards the dihedral, taking this climb down to 13b or so. Another option is to rack up a few cams and head up the dihedral to the top via the "tradgedy" dihedral. I believe this is around 13a. 

Getting established on the vertical wall right of the dihedral is quite cruxy with a pump and is most definitely the redpoint/onsight crux,  but with good beta a mere mortal can pull off this entrance exam to the wall's harder climbs. 2 more bolts of long lockoffs will get you to the anchors.

Location

Brain sector at Beauty Mtn. Just left of Mikey William's testpiece "Picket Fence".

Protection

7 bolts with fixed draws and bolted anchor.

Photos

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