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Routes in The Brain

Brain Storm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brain Teasers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brain Tweezers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brain Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Butta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chunky Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Climax Control S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Journey to the Center of the Brain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
M.E.N.S.A. S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mono Loco S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mulatto Serpent S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Out of Mind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Whiny Bugs S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Travisty, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Whiny Bugs S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
You Want It, You Got It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Harrison Dekker, 1991
Page Views: 820 total · 14/month
Shared By: Joseph DeGaetano on Mar 24, 2013
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

Although this route doesn't look too stunning from the ground, what it lacks in aesthetics it makes up for in movement. A V3 boulder problem start to some easier climbing will bring you to the infamous "mono" crux move. Engineer a way to make this move without wrecking your tendons and continue fighting your way to the next clip.

Once you're established about level with a short dihedral to the left, you've got several options. The original line went right on moves that are hard 13c; few people use this original beta. Many folks now step left to the dihedral, taking this climb down to 13b or so. Or, you can rack up the cams and take it to the top via the "tradgedy" dihedral.

Getting established on the vertical wall right of the dihedral is quite cruxy with a pump, but with good beta a mere mortal can pull off this entrance exam to the wall's harder climbs. 2 more bolts of long lockoffs will get you to the anchors.

Location

Brain sector at Beauty Mtn. Just left of Mikey William's testpiece "Picket Fence".

Protection

7 bolts with fixed draws and bolted anchor.

Photos

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