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Happy Hour Crag

Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

Happy Hour Crag is a south-facing wall that keeps the sun for a long time. There are a number of pleasant moderates on this quite high friction rock. Unfortunately, not all of the routes are able to take advantage of that rock quality. Some of the routes are nothing to write home about. That doesn't mean you should write off the rock; there's a number of cool routes, mostly in the middle of the rock. The crag is 70-120 feet high. It can get quite popular after work or on weekends.

L->R these appear to be:

A. Left Side, 5, 1p, 50', gear.
BA. Variation??, 8, 1p, gear.
B. I, Robot, 7, 1p, gear.
C. Are We Not Robots, 7, 80' gear.
D. Are We Not Men, 7, 1p, gear.
E1. Twofers, 8-, 1p, gear.
E2. Twofers Bypass, 8-, 1p, gear.
F? Twofers Gully, 5, 1p, gear.
G? The Big Spit, 9, 1p, gear.
H. Rush Hour, 11+, 1p, gear? bolts?
I. Last Call, 9+, 1p, gear.
J1. Dementia, 9+/10-, 1p, gear.
J2. Seeing Double, 10+, 1p, bolts (which may be gone) & gear.
J3. Cheers aka Thrill Of The Chaise, 10-, 1p, bolts & gear.
J4. Tipsey, 9, 1p, gear.
J5. Malign, 7, 1p, gear.
K. [[113743374], 9, 1p, 95', gear.
L. Nightcap, 9-, 1p, gear.
M. Skid Row, 9+, 1p, gear.
N. Unknown, ?, 1p, gear & bolts.
O1. Last Laugh, 11-, 1p, 100', gear.
O2. Grins, 8-, 1p, 100', gear.
O3 or P. Teetotaler, 11-, 1p, 100', gear & bolts.
Q1. Hands Off, 7+, 1p, 100', gear.
Q2. The Great Race, 9+, 1p, 100', gear.
Q3. Baby Aliens, 12-, 1p, 60', gear.
Q4. Bad Sneakers, 9+, 1p, gear.
Q5. Cruel Shoes, 9, 1p, gear.

Below & right

R. Bent Faith, 8- R, 1p, gear.

Getting There

Pass Cob Rock on the left at 6.6 miles. 100 yards further is a pull-off on the right for Blob Rock. 100 yards further there is a pull-off on the left side of the road (at 6.8 miles). Park, cross the road, and find a steep trail that heads directly up towards the rock. Take the left branch at trail forks; the right branch heads up to Security Risk.

Hiking time is about 10-15 minutes to the crag.

An easy path leads up around the left (west) side to the top of the rock; this is also used to descend from routes that don't have bolt anchors.

Cell Phone Coverager

FWIW, Verizon's cell phone covers does reach this crag. The service is a bit iffy.

Routes from Left to Right

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 121
Left Side
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 194
I, Robot
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 49
Are We Not Robots
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 100
Are We Not Men
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 230
Twofers
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 70
Twofers Bypass
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 64
Twofers Gully
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 39
The Big Spit
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 25
Rush Hour
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 51
Last Call
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 242
Dementia
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 16
Seein' Double
TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 104
Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 18
Tipsey
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 141
Malign
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
Perched-Pillar Pile
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 218
Nightcap
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 4
Skid Row
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
Last Laugh
Trad, Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 297
Grins
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 32
Teetotaler
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 46
Hands Off
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 22
The Great Race
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 1
Baby Aliens
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 8
Bad Sneakers
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
Cruel Shoes
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Bent Faith
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Left Side
 121
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
I, Robot
 194
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Are We Not Robots
 49
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Are We Not Men
 100
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad, TR
Twofers
 230
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Twofers Bypass
 70
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Twofers Gully
 64
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
The Big Spit
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Rush Hour
 25
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
Last Call
 51
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Dementia
 242
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Seein' Double
 16
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Cheers aka Thrill of the Ch…
 104
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Tipsey
 18
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Malign
 141
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Perched-Pillar Pile
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Nightcap
 218
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Skid Row
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad
Last Laugh
 20
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport, TR
Grins
 297
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Teetotaler
 32
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
Hands Off
 46
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Great Race
 22
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Baby Aliens
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad
Bad Sneakers
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
Cruel Shoes
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Bent Faith
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Happy Hour Crag.  Photo taken from Witches Tower.
[Hide Photo] Happy Hour Crag. Photo taken from Witches Tower.
Topo overview.
[Hide Photo] Topo overview.
Directions to Happy Hour Crag. <br>
Park at pullout with mile 34 marker or pullout immediately after (where trail starts). Both parking spots are on the left hand side (south) of road. The trail is on the right (north) side.
[Hide Photo] Directions to Happy Hour Crag. Park at pullout with mile 34 marker or pullout immediately after (where trail starts). Both parking spots are on the left hand side (south) of road. The trail is on…
The Peace Train.
[Hide Photo] The Peace Train.
Interesting lenticulars from the high winds.
[Hide Photo] Interesting lenticulars from the high winds.
View from the top of Nightcap(5.9), with Cob Rock visible on the opposite side of the Canyon.<br>
<br>
Photo: Dave Fiorucci
[Hide Photo] View from the top of Nightcap(5.9), with Cob Rock visible on the opposite side of the Canyon. Photo: Dave Fiorucci
Oso & Ayda enjoy watching the climbers from their shady lounge at Happy Hour Crag.
[Hide Photo] Oso & Ayda enjoy watching the climbers from their shady lounge at Happy Hour Crag.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This place can get crowded on the weekends in the summer! If you go mid-week, you can usually have your choice of routes. Also, its a good place to go to introduce people to outdoor climbing... Feb 1, 2002
[Hide Comment] Jon - you're not kidding. I would avoid this rock at all costs during the weekends. We were short on time and went a couple of Sundays ago in hopes of doing a few quick routes. Major mistake. My girlfriend was climbing Last Laugh and almost had a rope thrown down on her by someone wanting to top-rope a 5.8 close by. We left after one route. This crag has become a mecca for beginner climbers looking for quality top ropes. Unfortunately, not all of them are too climbing savvy yet and are a bit lacking when it comes to basic etiquette (i.e. don't throw ropes on people).When I was at the anchor, there was so much yelling and confusion amongst the beginners that I thought someone was going to fall off. For a better and less crowded area, deal with the heat and try security risk.

Aside from the crowds, happy hour is a great place for some after work and quick routes. I've had great luck in early season. Jul 1, 2002
[Hide Comment] I really love Happy Hour as a great place for after work climbing. I'm getting a little concerned, however, about the profusion of trails beneath the crag. Perhaps the Access Fund could continue its fine work in the area by establishing an "official" trail to the crag. In the meantime, I might suggest that folks stick to the slab approach across from the parking area that climbs directly up to the crag. This will minimize erosion on the hillside. Jul 3, 2002
[Hide Comment] In early June, Ron Olsen and I replaced all the rappel/lower hardware in the fixed anchors on this crag with 5/16" quick links and 3/8" chain links. In the process, we removed all smash (lap) links; the ones on the anchor of Grins were especially bad most likely due to the not-recommended practice of belaying and lowering directly through the anchors.

This effort was part of the American Safe Climbing Associations (ASCA -safeclimbing.org) Clean Anchors Campaign. They could use your support! Jun 27, 2003
[Hide Comment] Really enjoyed this rock. The guides claim there are some bolts at the top left usually listed as route 3, but I couldn't find any. Also don't get upset with us newbies who are TRing. Those of you aid climb and get there after we are aleady in the process of setting up, just ask if you can climb a route first. People like me realize that you are going to tie up a route a lot less than TRing. Jul 3, 2003
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] Anybody know when the 2 big peace symbols were painted on Happy Hour? We drove past there today and I think they are in the Cheers vicinity and are probably 6-8 feet in diameter. Very obvious from the road. Makes you want to wring a few necks. May 22, 2006
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
[Hide Comment] They were not there eight days ago. This is very disappointing news. May 23, 2006
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] Check out the Peace Train . May 24, 2006
[Hide Comment] If these peace-niks on rappel had cajones, they would paint the modified Mercedes symbol on the Pentagon. Instead, the individual(s) have created a trite gesture of vandalism that is utterly devoid of meaning. Good job, kids. May 25, 2006
[Hide Comment] WTF--someone has spray painted two large peace signs up high on
Happy Hour crag (just right of Dementia)! Who thought this was a good idea?? May 25, 2006
[Hide Comment] The peace signs were there on Saturday, May 20th. They look really bad! Does anyone know how to get the paint off without damaging the rock? Happy Hour is one of my favorite rocks and I hate to see it damaged like that. If someone has experience getting paint off of rock, please let me know. Is paint thinner the best way to get this off? May 30, 2006
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
[Hide Comment] FYI: a thread has been started regarding the defacement at mountainproject.com/v/color…. May 31, 2006
[Hide Comment] Thanks to whomever took the trouble to clean the spray paint vandalism at Happy Hour on Sunday - I don't know if they succeeded in getting it off with the bucket of soapy water - but perhaps using a solution of ethanol might work. Jun 6, 2006
Lizzy Scully
Lyons, Colorado
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know the name/rating of the steep, bolted line just right of Last Laugh? It feels like 5.12b, but it's not in the book or on MP. Jun 27, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] To the right of Last Laugh or to the right of Last Call? Do you mean this one ('Rush Hour'): ???
5.11+ if you are tall, harder if you are short. Jun 27, 2011
Lizzy Scully
Lyons, Colorado
[Hide Comment] Nope. It's to the right of that climb, just left of that one-move wonder 11a with a couple bolts. It's on a gently overhanging wall. Jul 9, 2011
Lizzy Scully
Lyons, Colorado
[Hide Comment] I found out the route is 12b, though I don't know the name. It seems an accurate grading. It's a fun route. Jul 16, 2011
[Hide Comment] I found a nice pair of kid's climbing shoes at the base of Happy Hour Crag this afternoon. Let me know if they're yours ... clintonmckinzie@gmail.com. May 5, 2013
farkas.time
Albuquerque, NM
[Hide Comment] Does anybody know what the bolted route is just to the right of Dementia and to the left of Cheers? It follows the left-facing arete/flake making the giant overhanging V-slot finger crack of Dementia. I've topped it a couple times now and it feels much harder than Cheers to me.

Thanks! Jun 30, 2013
Mark Roth
Boulder
[Hide Comment] Seein' Double @ Farkas.time Jun 30, 2013
GhaMby Eagan
Heaven
[Hide Comment] My friend and I went climbing at this wall yesterday. We had fun, it was nice that we could set up a top rope on these hard climbs. There were some holds that had chalk marks on them, I think they were marking the holds that were loose. I put more marks on a lot of other holds that I think are going easy to break soon. Watch out, there are lots of holds that are loose at this wall, hopefully other people will mark with chalk all of the loose holds so people don't get hurt. Jun 13, 2014
John W
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Hey guys, I left my jacket at the base of Happy Hour Crag today (3/8/18) near the left (west) side of the crag. It's a dark, grey REI puffy with a hood. If anyone sees it and would be able to return it to me, that would be awesome. I can buy you a six pack in return! I'm easiest to contact by texting me at 720-502-8378. Thanks a bunch!!!! Mar 8, 2018