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Areas in Security Risk Massif

Higher Security Risk 1 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Lower Security Risk 6 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Upper Security Risk 4 / 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is an organizational entry to help facilitate those less familiar with the maze of crags in Boulder Canyon. This heading includes Upper Security Risk & Lower Security Risk and Higher Security Risk.

There is a pleasant mix of 1-2 pitch routes in the moderate to advanced level of difficulty with a mix of traditional and bolt protected climbs.

Some of the popular routes here include: Pup, 9; Security Risk, 9 or 10; Get Smart, 10+; Crash Test Blondes, 11; Hot Flyer, 12-; Plan B, 12; The Juice, 12+; The Agony and Ecstasy, 13d.

These are south-facing crags high on the north side of the canyon. These can be breezy but can be quite warm in still conditions. This is a popular winter climbing area There have been wildlife nesting closures applicable to this area. Check first!

Getting There

Park about 6.7 miles past Elephant Buttresses as for Happy Hour Crag. Hike up to the R of Happy Hour Crag for an aerobic workout that will last from 15-30 minutes depending on your level of fitness.

29 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Security Risk Massif

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 66
Pup
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
Prism
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 39
Security Risk
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 28
Get Smart
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Cold Shot
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 21
Cracking the Code
Sport 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 73
Crash Test Blondes
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 62
Hot Flyer
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
Just A Little Insecure
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 91
Plan B
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
Enemy of the People
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 13
Hot Wire
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 18
The Juice
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Central Insecurity
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pup Upper Security Risk
 66
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Prism Lower Security Risk
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Security Risk Lower Security Risk
 39
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Get Smart Upper Security Risk
 28
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Cold Shot Upper Security Risk
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Cracking the Code Upper Security Risk
 21
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Crash Test Blondes Upper Security Risk
 73
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Hot Flyer Upper Security Risk
 62
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Just A Little Insecure Upper Security Risk
 21
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Plan B Upper Security Risk
 91
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Enemy of the People Lower Security Risk
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Hot Wire Upper Security Risk
 13
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Juice Upper Security Risk
 18
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Central Insecurity Lower Security Risk
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Security Risk Massif »

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Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Forest Service Reopens Climbing Areas in Boulder Canyon
www.fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/
Contact: Maribeth Pecotte, (303) 541-2500

Boulder, Colo. (April 2, 2010) - The Forest Service has reopened some climbing areas in Boulder Canyon that were closed to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.

Security Risk and the Blob Rock/Bitty Buttress areas are now open to climbing and other activities. These areas are located along State Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.

These closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including valuable alternate nest sites. Although these areas are being reopened, the Forest Service anticipates reinstating the closures in future years, to allow the eagles to choose their nest site without being disturbed.

The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31. Signs will be posted at key access points into the areas remaining closed. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will continue to monitor the areas.

For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, or visit the Boulder Ranger District web site at fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/recreatio…. Apr 8, 2010
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
From Bev Baker, Wildlife Biologist, Boulder Ranger District:

Boulder, Colo. (January 25, 2012) - The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests will implement its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon beginning February 1.
These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence.

Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec… (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31. Jan 26, 2012
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
From Bev Baker, USFS wildlife biologist:

U.S. Forest Service to reopen most climbing areas in Boulder Canyon

www.fs.usda.gov/arp
Contact: Boulder Ranger Station Visitor Information Services,

(303) 541-2500

Boulder, Colo. March 15 – This Mon., March 19, the U.S. Forest Service will reopen Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon. The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31, 2012. Mar 15, 2012
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
From the USFS:

Boulder, Colo. (Jan, 30 2013) - The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests will implement its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon beginning February 1.

These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence.

Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec… (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). = Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31. Jan 30, 2013
I find it very frustrating that over the past 14 years, these crags have closed in February often through May for golden eagles. This is not a nesting site & this was proven by wildlife biologists (Brent Bibles of the Colorado Division of Wildlife & Dr. Rob Ramey, former director of Zoology at the Denver Museum of Nature & Science) in Summer 2004. The only egg shells found in the nest on the upper right side of Upper Security Risk were from ravens and were 25 years old. Climbers should voice there disapproval to the Boulder Ranger District of the US Forest Service.
A group of us tried to get the Forest Service to lift this closure 9 years ago. This group of climbers included Chris Archer (attorney for the Access Fund), Rick Thompson & Shawn Tierney (former land acquisitions directors of the Access Fund), Rob Ramey (wildlife biologist), and myself (Boulder Canyon guidebook author & climber/first ascentionist). We were partly successful by getting the Forest Service to lift the closure of the buffer zone that was Happy Hour Crag & Bihedral Rock.

Beverly Baker (wildlife biologist) of the US Forest Service did not want to listen to the scientific facts and has continued to place a seasonal closure on Security Risk Crags every year despite the absence of raptors nesting at Security Risk crags.

I wrote about this unjustified seasonal closure on page 19 of "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume I". Feb 14, 2014
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
From Bev Baker, FS Wildlife Biologist:

Seasonal closure in Boulder Canyon protects nesting birds of prey

BOULDER, Colo. – To protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service will be implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2016. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.

Effective through July 31, 2016, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

“These closures allow the birds to choose a nest site without human disturbance. The chosen site remains closed until the eagles fledge in late July, but we typically reopen other parts of the area earlier,” said wildlife biologist Bev Baker.

The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.

Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/activity/arp/re…. Jan 31, 2016
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
From Bev Baker, USFS Biologist: Boulder, Colo. (March 9, 2017) – This Friday, March 10 the U.S. Forest Service will reopen Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon. The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31, 2017.

These areas were closed February 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. The areas, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls, are located along State Highway 119. Forest Service officials anticipate reinstating these closures annually on February 1 in the future to allow the birds to choose nest sites without being disturbed.

It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.

For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec… (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Mar 12, 2017
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
BOULDER, Colo. (April 6, 2018) – Several popular climbing areas in Boulder Canyon have reopened to the public following an annual golden eagle nesting closure.

Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to all activities. These areas close temporarily each year to allow the birds to choose nest sites without being disturbed. These areas close temporarily each year to allow the birds to choose nest sites without being disturbed.

Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through July 31, 2018.

The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.

K. "Reid" Armstrong
Public Affairs Specialist
Forest Service
Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests
Pawnee National Grassland
p: 303-541-2532 Apr 10, 2018

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