Elevation: 14,264 ft
GPS: 39.589, -105.643 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 419,971 total · 1,874/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Feb 16, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

This is a beautiful area of alpine rock with minimal approaches where you can climb stellar, alpine, granite climbs up to 1400 feet and be done in time for lunch or launch into a full adventure with aid climbing at 12000+ feet. Some of the best quality alpine granite in the Front Range lies here. Free routes in the area like Roofer Madness, Lincoln Lake Apron, Jabba, Cheap Date, 2nd Apron Center, 3rd Apron Left, Road Warrior, Good Evans, Cary Granite, Space Miser see little traffic. Bouldering has become quite popular in recent years with 4 star problems like The Dali Sit Down Start, Seurat, and The Ladder. There is room for much more; however, tread lightly here as the terrain tolerates less abuse than lower areas. There may even be lines to do off Guanella Pass ascending to the Sawtooth Traverse. Routes have been put up on Mt. Warren. Aid routes on the overhanging sections of the Black Wall see rare repeats. There are also routes "down valley" from the Black Wall on Mt. Spaulding. Descents can be as demanding as sticking a thumb out as the tourist drive by. Beware of the usual summer lightning storms.

Getting There

Take I-70 West of Denver to Idaho Springs. Exit 240 up the Mt. Evans Road brings you to Echo Lake. Follow the summit road to Summit Lake about 12,500 feet. Note you may be coerced to pay a toll fee (fee demonstration program) now that has increased to $15 (as of 2019) or have a Parks Pass ($80) with the $15 hologram add on to make it a Golden Eagle Pass. They are staffing the toll collection site by 7:45am! Black Wall and Summit aprons are accessed by parking at the Summit Lake parking area.

There may be a way to insist on a pass without use of the Forest Service facilities for a fee-less visit to Mt. Evans. Apparently, you may be able to not use the parking areas like at Summit Lake and avoid the fee.

Fees

From the Denver Post: one can pay the new, increased user fee of $15. If one uses the Summit Lake area alone, a $5 fee for Denver Parks can be dissected out. If one uses the other areas including the summit but not Summit Lake, a $10 fee can be dissected out. If one is only driving without stopping, no fee is required.

262 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Evans

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5 R
 41
Timeline
Boulder, Alpine
V2 5+
 144
The Ladder
Boulder, Alpine
V3 6A
 28
Dark Crystal
Boulder, Alpine
V6 7A
 41
The Dali Stand Start
Boulder, Alpine
V8+ 7B+
 40
The Dali Sit Down Start
Boulder, Alpine
V9+ 7C
 19
Bierstadt
Boulder, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 68
2nd Apron Right Side
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 33
Double Exposure
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 36
Road Warrior
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 54
Rainbow Highway
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 120
Good Evans
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C0 PG13
 33
Jabba
Trad, Aid, Alpine
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 84
Cary Granite
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 18
Undertow (free)
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 30
Sinners On Sunday
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Timeline Mt Evans Boulde… > Area A > Bierstadt Area
 41
V1 5 R Boulder, Alpine
The Ladder Mt Evans Boulde… > Area A > Bierstadt Area
 144
V2 5+ Boulder, Alpine
Dark Crystal Mt Evans Boulde… > Area A > Bierstadt Area
 28
V3 6A Boulder, Alpine
The Dali Stand Start Mt Evans Boulde… > Area A > Dali Area
 41
V6 7A Boulder, Alpine
The Dali Sit Down Start Mt Evans Boulde… > Area A > Dali Area
 40
V8+ 7B+ Boulder, Alpine
Bierstadt Mt Evans Boulde… > Area A > Bierstadt Area
 19
V9+ 7C Boulder, Alpine
2nd Apron Right Side Aprons
 68
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Double Exposure Lincoln Lake Slabs
 33
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Road Warrior Black Wall
 36
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Rainbow Highway Black Wall
 54
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Good Evans Black Wall
 120
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Jabba Lincoln Lake Slabs
 33
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C0 PG13 Trad, Aid, Alpine
Cary Granite Black Wall
 84
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Undertow (free) Black Wall
 18
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Sinners On Sunday Black Wall
 30
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Mt. Evans »

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