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Routes in Lincoln Lake Slabs

Another Load of Ginormous Excitement (aka The Cichon Variation) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Columbine Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dan Hare's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Double Exposure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Emancipation Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ewoks Don't Sport Climb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 R
Gettysburg Address S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Golden Slab T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jabba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Kneel Armstrong T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lincoln Lake Apron T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Loose Bolt Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pika S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Secret Ramp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Short Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sick Puppy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport Dike S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Puffy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 110 ft
FA: Peter Prandoni & Ken Trout, 1985
Page Views: 1,807 total, 32/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Mar 14, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

On the first ascent the start felt slimy; like Jabba the Hutt from the movie The Empire Strikes Back (opened 1985).

There are two good rest stances that divide the route into three rounds. Almost every move feels 5.10.

The first round starts after 20 feet of 3rd class approach. Begin the real climbing with big reaches past tundra clumps. Then a finger crack leads to a reach right into the main crack. Finally, sustained finger jams and laybacks end at the first rest stance.


The second round is the shortest. Awkward and thin hands lead to the second rest stance, just below the crux.

The third round liebacks a leaning thin flake. It starts with cool holds to assist. Beware, the holds get worse and getting to the anchor is tough.

There is a bolt anchor at 40m for lowering off, but leave the gear in for any followers. Some downclimbing is necessary when lowering with a single 70 meter rope.

LINCOLN LAKE ROUTE SUMMARY TOPO

Location

Belay in the grass and flowers at the toe of the buttress. It is the second route down, from the left side approach (red on photo).

Protection

Lots of cams to #2 Camalot (gold), some like stoppers too, especially for the start.

Per Jason Kaplan: if done as an aid route: a set of nuts in the mid to large size range (might have been easier with a better variety and possibly more, but I had lost my small to mid size set recently), a set of sliding nuts, doubles from blue Alien through #3 Camalot (yellow and red TCUs I found to be quite useful and I was wishing I had more of, I had 3 in the red size) I also ended up using the pink and red tricams I had, a lot in the fingers to 0.75 range. Hybrid Aliens were nice, wished I had 2 sets and full sets at that, not just singles of green through red (I think that would probably make this thing c1). #8 BD hex was useful (or 3 #2 Camalots), I found a 3.5 and #4 Camalot worked well in one pod together. Be careful topping out, you use a flake that seems a little questionable. Tread lightly!
Andrew McLean
Colorado
  5.11-
Andrew McLean   Colorado
  5.11-
This route is really great. It needs more traffic and some landscaping. GET ON IT!!!! Lisa's rack suggestion is perfect. Aug 25, 2017
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
  5.11-
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
  5.11-
Excellent! Jabba is one of the best granite crack climbs I've done on the Front Range. Great rock, long, interesting, and continuous - it's full value.

Gear recommendation: 2 x green Alien - #2, opt. #3, medium-large nuts, opt. extra red Alien and #0.5 Camalot. Aug 3, 2016