Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: Peter Prandoni & Ken Trout, 1985
Page Views: 3,545 total · 28/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Mar 14, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

35 Opinions

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Mike Cichon makes the long reach, 2013.
On the first ascent the start felt slimy - like Jabba the Hutt from the movie The Empire Strikes Back (opened 1985).

After 20 feet of 3rd class approach, pull onto the real climbing with big reaches past tundra clumps. Then a short finger crack, sunlit in the photo above, leads to the big reach into the main crack (right).  The best pro blocks a necessary finger pod.  Not restful to hang on and work in the alternate gear just before the big reach (first PG13-). Once across and committed, there are better cams but still no feet! Steep jams lead to the rest pod.  

The second half of Jabba has critical blind gear. The crack faces right and the body needs to lean left. Before succumbing to the temptation to cut and run for the anchor, please remember: gear has been known to fall out. Also, long falls have been taken!  

There is a bolt anchor at 35 meters for lowering off. Because the crack arches a lot, it is best to have a follower clean the gear. A single 70 meter rope just reaches the tundra.



Belay in the grass and flowers at the toe of the buttress. It is the second route down, from the left side approach (red on photo).


Lots of cams to #2 Camalot (gold), some like stoppers too, especially for the start.

Per Jason Kaplan: if done as an aid route: a set of nuts in the mid to large size range (might have been easier with a better variety and possibly more, but I had lost my small to mid size set recently), a set of sliding nuts, doubles from blue Alien through #3 Camalot (yellow and red TCUs I found to be quite useful and I was wishing I had more of, I had 3 in the red size) I also ended up using the pink and red tricams I had, a lot in the fingers to 0.75 range. Hybrid Aliens were nice, wished I had 2 sets and full sets at that, not just singles of green through red (I think that would probably make this thing c1). #8 BD hex was useful (or 3 #2 Camalots), I found a 3.5 and #4 Camalot worked well in one pod together. Be careful topping out, you use a flake that seems a little questionable. Tread lightly!