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Routes in Lincoln Lake Slabs

Another Load of Ginormous Excitement (aka The Cichon Variation) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Horns S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Codeine S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Columbine Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dan Hare's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dear Sergio T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Double Exposure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Easy Flakes (name unknown) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Emancipation Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ewoks Don't Sport Climb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 R
Gettysburg Address S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goat Yoga S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Slab T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jabba T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C0 PG13
Keasbey Nights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kneel Armstrong T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lincoln Lake Apron T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Loose Bolt Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Marzipan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pika S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Secret Ramp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Short Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sick Puppy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport Dike S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Puffy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
West Colfax S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Description

Jason Kaplan wrote the first description for this cliff on Mountain Project:  "This is a pristine alpine setting just down a ways off the side of the road!"
Lincoln Lake Slabs, Colorado.
Flower covered approach and belay ledge for Columbine Crack.
   Please tread carefully.

Getting There

Per Jason Kaplan: drive up CO Hwy 103 to Mt. Evans and go up Evans. There is a long lake on the left (Lincolin Lake) before you get to Summit Lake with some obvious rock features about 1000 feet above (right next to the road). There are a couple small pulloffs on the dropoff side of the road at and after the corner just as you pass over the top of the last cliff.

L->R:

L->R:

A. Ewoks Don't Sport Climb, 10 A2 R, 1p, 70', bolts, gear.
B. Columbine Crack, 10, 1p, 70', gear.
C. Gordon Light Saber, 10+, 2p, bolts & gear.
D. Jabba, 11- or ?C1-2?, 1p, 110', gear.
E. Sport Dike, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
F. Uncle Puffy, 11-, 1p, bolts.
G. Gettysburg Address, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
H. Pika, 8, 1p, bolts.
I. Codeine, 11, 1p, bolts +/- gear.
J1. Another Load of Ginormous Excitement (aka The Cichon Variation), 11, 1p, 65', gear.
J2. Kneel Armstrong, 10+, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
below J2. Dear Sergio, 13-, 2p, 130', bolts.
J3. Sick Puppy Direct, 12.
K1J3. Sick Puppy, 13.
K2. Double Exposure, 10-, 2p, 200', gear & bolts.
L. Dan Hare's Route, 9 PG-13, 2p, 220', gear.
M. Lightfoot & Quickfoot, 5.9-, 1p, bolts.
N. Loose Bolt Slab, 10- PG-13, 1p, 140', bolts & gear.
O. Easy Flakes (name unknown), 5, 1p, 100', gear.
P. Marzipan, 9? PG-13, 2p, 350', gear.
Q. Golden Slab, 8+ PG-13, 1p, 110', gear.
R. West Colfax, 8-, 2p, 140', bolts.

above R and left. Emancipation Arete, 10-, 1p, 130', bolts.
S. Lincoln Lake Apron, 7+ PG-13, 4p, 350', bolts & gear.

T. Secret Ramp, 9+ PG-13, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
U. Unknown, 10 R?, gear & bolt?
V. Short Arete, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts +/- gear.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lincoln Lake Slabs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 25
Lincoln Lake Apron
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 12
Golden Slab
Trad, Alpine
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
Pika
Sport, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 4
Dan Hare's Route
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Columbine Crack
Trad, Alpine
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 21
Sport Dike
Sport, Alpine
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Emancipation Arete
Sport, Alpine
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 27
Double Exposure
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Uncle Puffy
Sport, Alpine
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Kneel Armstrong
Trad, Alpine
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C0 PG13
 28
Jabba
Trad, Aid, Alpine
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
Another Load of Ginormous Excitement…
Trad, Alpine
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Gettysburg Address
Sport, Alpine
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Sick Puppy
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Codeine
Sport, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lincoln Lake Apron
 25
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Golden Slab
 12
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Alpine
Pika
 7
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, Alpine
Dan Hare's Route
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Columbine Crack
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine
Sport Dike
 21
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, Alpine
Emancipation Arete
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, Alpine
Double Exposure
 27
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Uncle Puffy
 9
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, Alpine
Kneel Armstrong
 7
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine
Jabba
 28
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C0 PG13 Trad, Aid, Alpine
Another Load of Ginormous E…
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Alpine
Gettysburg Address
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, Alpine
Sick Puppy
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Codeine
 6
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Lincoln Lake Slabs »

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Joe Varela
Fort Collins, CO
Joe Varela   Fort Collins, CO
Park near the 6 mile marker. Anyone else know of other established routes here? Oct 3, 2010
Mark Roth
Boulder
Mark Roth   Boulder
Isn't this the same as Lincoln Lake Slabs ? Mar 13, 2013
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
They are the same. I've had trouble convincing people that Jabba/Under Colorado's Cloudy Skies is worthy. So I was super psyched to see Jason Kaplan's post, even though we had previously named and free-climbed the crack. I know he's a believer! But, I couldn't bring myself to abandon my old and previously published nomenclature. I like having both versions.

(Aiding on Jabba is certainly recommendable wall training!)

Mar 14, 2013
J. Thompson
denver, co
J. Thompson   denver, co
Thanks for adding this, Ken.
I agree that the proper name for the area should be used. With all due respect to the person who submitted "Lincoln's Wall"...he didn't realize routes had been done there years before and the area had a name.

Cheers,

josh Mar 14, 2013
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
I believe that most of this cliff is actually on Denver Mountain Park land unfortunately. I always find it interesting that "we" sold some of our wilderness lands so that a road could be developed where otherwise not even a mountain bike could go.

Just a heads up, probably not the best idea to post up routes here although I do know of some additional development done on the right side of the cliff in recent years. There is a good map on the Evans Wilderness site that shows which parts of the cliff are actually on wilderness, but it is only a small section. Mar 24, 2013
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
Kevin's comment had me a bit worried and so some research was done. I found a very accurate map published by Denver Parks and Recreation. Lincoln Lake is colored as Forest Service land. Whew!

Here is a link to the Denver Parks map: denvergov.org/Portals/747/d…

I would agree with Kevin's interpretation of the wilderness boundary as shown on maps; most of the slabs appear to be outside the wilderness and within the Mt. Evans Road buffer zone.

NEW ROUTES 2016

7/24: Tombo, the arete is seeming 5.7, maybe 5.8 - easier than Golden Slab (32 meters, ten bolts plus two at the anchor on a very nice ledge. Two yellow Aliens can help too but not too importantly.

The route to the left of the unnamed arete and right of Golden Slab is the most mega 5.6 sport pitch ever. Bolted close so neither cleaning nor stepping on the tundra is necessary (15 bolts plus two at the anchor, 35 meters). If one stops at the anchor for the 5.7 arete, then it is only 5.5 sport (nine protection bolts, 25 meters).

There is another mega sport pitch just right of Dan Hare's Route: Lightfoot & Quickfoot, 5.9-, fifteen bolts plus two double bolts anchors, since the route splits at the top. The right hand finish is 5.9+. =It may still need a first bolt for the intended audience.

Up the hill between Columbine Crack and Jabba is a new two pitch mostly sport route: Gordon Light Saber, 5.10+. Marsha Trout, Beth Bennett, and I could not quite nail the crux off the belay. Same day, Nicola Masciandaro and Bo Earle sent it quickly! Use #1 or #0.75 C4 Camalot on the first pitch (nine bolts, 5.9, V2 to get on belay ledge). The #1 really helps for A0-ing the crux, and some tiny cams help finish the monster traverse. 35 meters to the ground from the anchor on top. Swing left to Columbine Crack's starting ledge if you only have 30 meters. Jul 2, 2013
Tombo
Boulder
Tombo   Boulder
What's the arete route to the right of Golden Slab. Bolted 5.7 - 8? Jul 24, 2016
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
Gordon Light Saber (left of Jabba) is a freakin' blast. I made the mistake of linking both pitches and had world record rope drag at the top of 2. Our 60m reached the ground from the very top anchors with a little finesse. The undercling traverse is AMAZING. Take a few finger and smaller cams. Do it as 2 pitches, and you will love it! Thanks, Ken!!! Aug 22, 2016

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