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Routes in Lincoln Lake Slabs

Another Load of Ginormous Excitement (aka The Cichon Variation) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Columbine Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dan Hare's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Double Exposure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Emancipation Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ewoks Don't Sport Climb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 R
Gettysburg Address S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Golden Slab T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jabba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Kneel Armstrong T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lincoln Lake Apron T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Loose Bolt Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pika S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Secret Ramp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Short Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sick Puppy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport Dike S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Puffy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, Alpine, 100 ft
FA: Kirk Miller, Euel Choate, Colin Miller
Page Views: 338 total, 7/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Aug 18, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Climb Jabba's spine at around 5.8 to reach the business of this route.

The harder climbing begins with a tricky throw from thin feet to pull a difficult mantle. Once the ledge is gained traverse right then around the corner.

To reach the anchors pull the roof crux; high step into an undercling, crossover right to thuggish laybacks, clip the last bolt, and finish on a cool hand rail.

Location

This route climbs the North East corner of the Jabba buttress, right of Jabba and Sport Dike.

Protection

Bolts to fixed anchors. 70 meter rope or tie a knot in the end.
Bring plenty of alpine draws to reduce rope drag on the 5.8 leading to the crux. Strategic rope management down low makes the 5.11 finish more enjoyable.

Photos

Brett S.
Colorado
Brett S.   Colorado
This route can be done with a 60 meter rope, we had about 2 meters to spare. For sure, tie a knot in the end though! Jul 2, 2017