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Routes in Lincoln Lake Slabs

Another Load of Ginormous Excitement (aka The Cichon Variation) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Columbine Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dan Hare's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Double Exposure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Emancipation Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ewoks Don't Sport Climb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 R
Gettysburg Address S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Golden Slab T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jabba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Kneel Armstrong T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lincoln Lake Apron T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Loose Bolt Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pika S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Secret Ramp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Short Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sick Puppy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport Dike S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Puffy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, Alpine, 130 ft
FA: Kirk Miller, Ken Trout, Marsha Trout
Page Views: 360 total, 6/month
Shared By: Kirk Miller on Mar 17, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This fun route ascends clean, exposed, alpine granite. From the bolted belay, climb onto the arete and follow it up to an engaging face that tops out on a beautiful ledge system.

Location

Approach by climbing the stellar 5.7, Lincoln Lake Apron. From the last belay, traverse left to a bolted belay station at the base of the arete (red and yellow dotted line on topo).

It is also possible to rappel 30 meters from the route's summit anchors to a ledge, above and left of the bolted belay, with a separate anchor. From the ledge, three or four bolts connect to the headwall, bypassing the arete.

Protection

Bolts to fixed anchors.

Photos

KyleT
Lakewood, CO
KyleT   Lakewood, CO
As a heads up when belaying, there will be some rope drag low on the route (between bolts 2 and 3) where you step on to the arete if you're not heads up, and your climber falls high on the route, they risk a big fall over the roof into the slab below, which is out of sight to the belayer. A better alternative is to move to the anchors around the corner, you can't see them from where the route starts, but at the third bolt look down and left. Aug 10, 2015
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
  5.10+
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
  5.10+
A good, very well-bolted route. Felt a little stiff for 10-. There is also a bit of exfoliation still occurring so don't be surprised if that little edge you're holding on to breaks away as you pull on it. Aug 3, 2013