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Routes in Lincoln Lake Slabs

Another Load of Ginormous Excitement (aka The Cichon Variation) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Columbine Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dan Hare's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Double Exposure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Emancipation Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ewoks Don't Sport Climb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 R
Gettysburg Address S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Golden Slab T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jabba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Kneel Armstrong T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lincoln Lake Apron T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Loose Bolt Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pika S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Secret Ramp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Short Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sick Puppy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport Dike S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Puffy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, Alpine, 60 ft
FA: Beth Bennet, Stuart Rtichey, Jeroen Vanwolferen, Ken & Marsha Trout, 2013
Page Views: 1,470 total, 26/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Mar 14, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Introduction

This is a short route up a vertical, aplitic dike that ends when the holds disappear. Several very good climbers have tried to continue the line but no luck. The direct finish will be much harder and probably end up cutting right quite a bit.

Route Description

The route starts with a low bolt on the slab a few feet right of Jabba. Climb past six bolts up a dike. The crux is making the third clip and moving past. There is a double bolt anchor with mussy hooks.

Gear

There is no need for an expensive trad rack on this. You need six quickdraws and maybe a cam to protect reaching the second bolt.

Lincoln Lake route summary


Photos

ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
  5.11a
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
  5.11a
I added a direct start to this that maybe bumps it up to 11. I love this route now seven bolts!!! Aug 28, 2014
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
  5.10c PG13
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
  5.10c PG13
Fun little route, but I gotta go with PG-13.

Watch yourself on the first two clips; you'll take a nasty grounder for sure if you blow either clip. For me, the second clip was the hardest clip on the route.... Jul 24, 2014
Above this pitch is potential for a second pitch. It is a thin, right-angling dike/seam.

There are anchors on the ledge immediately above the seam.

I put the anchors in a few years ago intending to work the moves and eventually free this line. Since the day the bolts went in in 2008, I have gotten on the route two times. I really don't have the time or inclination to do it. I am declaring this an open project to anyone who thinks it's worth their time and hardware (hell, I'll supply the hardware).

I think if you aggressively clean it, then spend a bunch of time accidentally popping more crystals, have tougher toes than mine, and aren't easily discouraged, it'll probably go. I bet it'll be 6-8 bolts.

A note on the anchor: it's in a great spot for TR. I don't believe the route is actually going to finish there. There are features that could lead this thing either right or left. Straight up isn't terribly logical or aesthetic. Move the anchor hangers and quicklinks if you find a better path.

I think this is probably mid 5.13 but may be easier if some of the crumblies leave a real edge behind. Pretty cool since it's less than vertical and somehow not slab climbing.

Have fun. Aug 3, 2013