Type: Sport, Alpine, 70 ft
FA: Tyson Ferryman, Kirk Miller
Page Views: 1,008 total · 19/month
Shared By: Tyson Ferryman on Jul 19, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Climb the face through 3 bolts to a rest ledge, and get ready! Figure out the moves past the overlap, hang on, fire to the arête, and go to the top of the buttress! This is a wild ride. It has awesome holds in a supreme setting. Get on it!

A TR can be set up from Pika on the right.

Thanks to Kirk for finding the line and giving me the opportunity to get the FA. I will always remember this one.

Location

It is on the far right side of the Jabba Buttress, between Uncle Puffy and Pika.

Protection

11 bolts to a two bolt anchor with ring and chain.

Photos

ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
  5.12a/b PG13
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
  5.12a/b PG13
I would not recommend this route due to the runout up top. If there was another bolt at the finish, I would give this three and a half stars. I got on it with a couple different partners, and none off them liked the runout. They all thought it was silly and out off character with the rest of the super closely bolted route. Still fun. Very pretty route with great position. Sep 17, 2014
Tyson Ferryman
Bailey, CO
  5.12b
Tyson Ferryman   Bailey, CO
  5.12b
I got on this with several different partners, and no one noticed the "runout". I think you will be ok. Feb 9, 2016
Brett S.
Colorado
Brett S.   Colorado
A stick clip would be useful for the 2nd bolt. Clipping on lead was a bit spooky, you will hit the ledge if you blow it. This is a really good route in a pretty epic area. Solid at .12b in my out-of-shape-opinion. Jul 2, 2017
Dakota from North Dakota   Golden, CO
Good route with stout moves on a neat feature. That said, I thought the bolt line was confusing as it seemed both more natural and athstetic to continue straight up the arête versus moving straight over to climb the left side of the roof. Aug 11, 2018
Corey Flynn
USA
  5.12a
Corey Flynn   USA
  5.12a
Funky bolting but fun-ish climbing. Sep 14, 2018