Loose Bolt Slab
Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
Routes in Lincoln Lake Slabs
|Another Load of Ginormous Excitement (aka The Cichon Variation) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Columbine Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Dan Hare's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Double Exposure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Emancipation Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Ewoks Don't Sport Climb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 R|
|Gettysburg Address S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Golden Slab T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Jabba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Kneel Armstrong T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Lincoln Lake Apron T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Loose Bolt Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Pika S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Secret Ramp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Short Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Sick Puppy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Sport Dike S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Uncle Puffy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 140 ft|
|FA:||Ken & Marsha Trout, 2013|
|Page Views:||195 total, 3/month|
|Shared By:||Ken Trout on Mar 14, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionScramble up to a grassy ledge with a single loose, but usable, bolt. Handy for keeping packs and climbers from slipping of the ledge.
From the belay, move right into an easy corner and solo up 20 feet to a ledge. From the ledge, make an unprotected move left onto the face to reach the first pro in a horizontal crack (small cam). Move left along the seam to even bigger, better pro.
Once this gear is in, it is possible to back-clean the first piece or two. The crux is near the end of the pitch, that's why the back-clean hassle is worth the trouble.
From the last good gear in the horizontal seam, move up to the first protection bolt, 30 or 40 feet above the loose bolt. The second bolt is just above, after which a long runout is done up right to a grassy ledge and bolt #3.
Four or five more bolts protect some thin crumbly/cruxy moves. A small/medium cam helps protect the run out to the anchors (40 meters).