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Routes in Lincoln Lake Slabs

Another Load of Ginormous Excitement (aka The Cichon Variation) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Columbine Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dan Hare's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Double Exposure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Emancipation Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ewoks Don't Sport Climb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 R
Gettysburg Address S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Golden Slab T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jabba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Kneel Armstrong T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lincoln Lake Apron T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Loose Bolt Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pika S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Secret Ramp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Short Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sick Puppy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport Dike S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Puffy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 140 ft
FA: Ken & Marsha Trout, 2013
Page Views: 195 total, 3/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Mar 14, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Scramble up to a grassy ledge with a single loose, but usable, bolt. Handy for keeping packs and climbers from slipping of the ledge.

From the belay, move right into an easy corner and solo up 20 feet to a ledge. From the ledge, make an unprotected move left onto the face to reach the first pro in a horizontal crack (small cam). Move left along the seam to even bigger, better pro.

Once this gear is in, it is possible to back-clean the first piece or two. The crux is near the end of the pitch, that's why the back-clean hassle is worth the trouble.

From the last good gear in the horizontal seam, move up to the first protection bolt, 30 or 40 feet above the loose bolt. The second bolt is just above, after which a long runout is done up right to a grassy ledge and bolt #3.

Four or five more bolts protect some thin crumbly/cruxy moves. A small/medium cam helps protect the run out to the anchors (40 meters).

Location

See the photo.

Protection

A half-dozen cams from small to medium.
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
 
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
 
The unnecessary bolt was put there to keep climbers from trampling the tundra while looking for gear placements. Aug 17, 2016
Greg D
Here
Greg D   Here
There is a much better start than described above. Start about six feet right of the loose bolt and find the path of least resistance to the horn 20 feet directly above the loose bolt at the base. Then find the path of least resistance to the first bolt. There is good gear that is not visible from the ground. Maybe PG-13 once you find your first piece. Use long slings and enjoy.

Also, skip the bolt on the easy grassy terrain. Instead place a bomber 0.5 Camalot 8 feet or so to the left. This bolt is completely unnecessary and may add to drag. Rope drag was not an issue whatsoever.

Rap with a 60m to the grassy ledge to climbers right and do easy downclimbing to base. Sep 4, 2014