Type: Trad, Alpine, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Richard Aschert, Kirk Miller, Ken Trout. FFA: Michael Hauck
Page Views: 1,363 total · 38/month
Shared By: Michael Hauck on Aug 31, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Ken Trout, Kirk Miller, and I believe Richard Ashert found and prepped this awesome line. Ken was kind enough to share it with me and was under the impression it had not been done. The crux is the obvious, large roof resembling the Great Roof on El Cap, and it climbs like it too.

Start on the first pitch of Double Exposure (an awesome 5.9 pitch on its own). Once at the first anchor, do a techy, delicate, 5.11 traverse clipping a bolt along the way to the corner. Some back cleaning of gear will be necessary to reduce rope drag. Work your way up the progressively steep corner until you get to the 15' horizontal roof, and the feet disappear. Undercling and jam your way out the roof, being strategic about gear placements as to not have it all eaten by the crack. I placed a 0.75 sideways about 2/3's the way out the roof to prevent the rope from pulling the gear in. At the end of the roof comes my favorite part. Throw a thin jam around the corner and above your head, then mantel into the dihedral behind the roof. A 2 bolt/rap ring anchor sits in the alcove behind the roof.

There is now a direct start (same grade), it follows the crack in its entirety from the ground.

For the direct start, use a mandatory 80m rope and doubles from 0.5 to #3. This is less quality than traversing in from Double Exposure, but it is a much longer pitch and is more straightforward.

Location

This route lies on the rock formation to the climber's right of Jabba and shares the first pitch with Double Exposure.

Protection

A double rack from 0.3 to #3, and an #4 optional for the roof.

Photos