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Routes in Lincoln Lake Slabs

Another Load of Ginormous Excitement (aka The Cichon Variation) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Codeine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Columbine Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dan Hare's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Double Exposure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Emancipation Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ewoks Don't Sport Climb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 R
Gettysburg Address S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Golden Slab T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jabba T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C0
Kneel Armstrong T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lincoln Lake Apron T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Loose Bolt Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Marzipan T PG13
Pika S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Secret Ramp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Short Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sick Puppy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport Dike S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Puffy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Richard Aschert, Kirk Miller, Ken Trout. FFA: Michael Hauck
Page Views: 599 total · 56/month
Shared By: Michael Hauck on Aug 31, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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  1.  Ken Trout, Kirk Miller, and I believe Richard Ashert found and prepped this awesome line. Ken was kind enough to share it with me and was under the impression it had not been done. The crux is the obvious, large roof resembling the Great Roof on El Cap, and it climbs like it too.
Start on the first pitch of Double Exposure (an awesome 5.9 pitch on its own). Once at the first anchor, do a techy, delicate, 5.11 traverse clipping a bolt along the way to the corner. Some backcleaning of gear will be necessary to reduce rope drag. Work your way up the progressively steep corner until you get to the 15' horizontal roof, and the feet disappear. Undercling and jam your way out the roof, being strategic about gear placements as to not have it all eaten by the crack. I placed a 0.75 sideways about 2/3's the way out the roof to prevent the rope from pulling the gear in. At the end of the roof comes my favorite part. Throw a thin jam around the corner and above your head, then mantel into the dihedral behind the roof. A 2 bolt/rap ring anchor sits in the alcove behind the roof.


This route lies on the rock formation to the climber's right of Jabba and shares the first pitch with Double Exposure.


A double rack from 0.3 to #3, and an #4 optional for the roof.


Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
FFA: Michael Hauk.
Well done! Burly, physical jamming at 13,000 feet, one Sick Puppy for sure. Dec 2, 2017
Ryan Gajewski
Longmont, Co.
Ryan Gajewski   Longmont, Co.
Great route! A must-do for the area. Jun 1, 2018

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