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Routes in Lincoln Lake Slabs

Another Load of Ginormous Excitement (aka The Cichon Variation) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Horns S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Codeine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Columbine Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dan Hare's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dear Sergio T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Double Exposure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Easy Flakes (name unknown) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Emancipation Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ewoks Don't Sport Climb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 R
Gettysburg Address S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Goat Yoga S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Slab T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jabba T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C0 PG13
Keasbey Nights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kneel Armstrong T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lincoln Lake Apron T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Loose Bolt Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Marzipan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pika S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Secret Ramp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Short Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sick Puppy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport Dike S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Puffy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
West Colfax S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Alpine, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Richard Aschert, Kirk Miller, Ken Trout. FFA: Michael Hauck
Page Views: 767 total · 52/month
Shared By: Michael Hauck on Aug 31, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Ken Trout, Kirk Miller, and I believe Richard Ashert found and prepped this awesome line. Ken was kind enough to share it with me and was under the impression it had not been done. The crux is the obvious, large roof resembling the Great Roof on El Cap, and it climbs like it too.

Start on the first pitch of Double Exposure (an awesome 5.9 pitch on its own). Once at the first anchor, do a techy, delicate, 5.11 traverse clipping a bolt along the way to the corner. Some back cleaning of gear will be necessary to reduce rope drag. Work your way up the progressively steep corner until you get to the 15' horizontal roof, and the feet disappear. Undercling and jam your way out the roof, being strategic about gear placements as to not have it all eaten by the crack. I placed a 0.75 sideways about 2/3's the way out the roof to prevent the rope from pulling the gear in. At the end of the roof comes my favorite part. Throw a thin jam around the corner and above your head, then mantel into the dihedral behind the roof. A 2 bolt/rap ring anchor sits in the alcove behind the roof.

There is now a direct start (same grade), it follows the crack in its entirety from the ground.

Use mandatory 80m ropes and doubles from 0.5 to #3. This is less quality than traversing in from Double Exposure, but it is a much longer pitch and is more straightforward.

Location

This route lies on the rock formation to the climber's right of Jabba and shares the first pitch with Double Exposure.

Protection

A double rack from 0.3 to #3, and an #4 optional for the roof.

Photos

Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
 
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
 
FFA: Michael Hauk.
Well done! Burly, physical jamming at 13,000 feet, one Sick Puppy for sure. Dec 2, 2017
Ryan Gajewski
Longmont, Co.
  5.12a
Ryan Gajewski   Longmont, Co.
  5.12a
Great route! A must-do for the area. Jun 1, 2018
Michael Hauck
  5.12-
Michael Hauck  
  5.12-
I finally got around to doing the direct start, following the crack in its entirety from the ground. Same grade, less quality climbing but more straightforward, an 80m rope is mandatory!!!! Aug 11, 2018
Dakota from North Dakota
Golden, CO
 
Dakota from North Dakota   Golden, CO
 
I did the direct start as well. It climbed great as it followed the natural weakness bottom to top and just makes sense. Still a bit dirty in the middle but VERY clean in the business. This thing is ready to be sent every weekend. Aug 11, 2018

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