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Routes in Lincoln Lake Slabs

Another Load of Ginormous Excitement (aka The Cichon Variation) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Columbine Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dan Hare's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Double Exposure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Emancipation Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ewoks Don't Sport Climb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 R
Gettysburg Address S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Golden Slab T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jabba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Kneel Armstrong T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lincoln Lake Apron T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Loose Bolt Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pika S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Secret Ramp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Short Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sick Puppy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport Dike S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Puffy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 70 ft
FA: Mike Cichon
Page Views: 591 total, 14/month
Shared By: mike c on Jul 7, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The crux is between 2nd and 3rd bolt. It's all good but needs one more bolt up high, so it's a little run out up high, but the terrain is easier. I led it ground up and mostly aided the line with a mixed bag of techniques. I hand drilled all bolts from hooks or free stances with a hand drill! Fun stuff.

Location

It begins 20' or so left of Columbine Crack, right off the boulder. Walk down or rap from the anchor hidden directly above the climb, maybe 50' or so up the hill once you top out.

Protection

A standard rack up to #1 or #2 with a couple blue, green, yellow, and red Alien-sized camming units. There are some bolts, bashies, a homemade RURP, and new piton (#2 BD angle). All bashies (7), the RURP, and heads will come out. The angle should stay, it's awesome! I have a temporary anchor till I return to add a bolt and hopefully free it at old school 11++ in the very near future. I will add a two bolt anchor then.

Photos

mike c
golden
 
mike c   golden
 
It would be cool to ski up to it once it snows more...then dry tool it and make some better holds on the traverse.... Nov 22, 2014