The Gorilla Steps

This is a new route that climbs a beautiful part of the wall in three short, fun, clean, and adventurous pitches.

Pitch one - climb the featured arete to the right of Kneel Armstrong. Optional #2 or #3 cams can help getting to the first bolt but aren't necessary. The first crux is at the 2nd bolt and involves either a tricky match on the crimp rail and a big stretch or a fun dyno to a fat jug (5.11 ish). The second crux, the original Gorilla Step, comes up high. From an awesome jug flake, figure out how to pull up and mantle it from the left or right side (5.11). Run up to the anchor from here. Be careful of choss on the ledge. We removed the obvious blocks, but be careful up there as there could be some lingering chunks.

Pitch two – more monkey business… it is recommended to extend the belay anchor down and right so that you can belay directly beneath the first bolt. Boulder up a sequence involving a hand jam and an undercling. Pull the bulge and shake out, then figure out how to pull a second bulge (crux ~ 12-). There are two ways to do this depending on what style suits you, either a big mantle (another Gorilla Step) or a big reach and a crimpy balancy match. Cruise up the spectacularly featured slab to an anchor at a grassy ledge. This belay is in a wonderful spot with an awesome view.  

Pitch three – the missing link pitch. This is the best pitch on the route and even worth doing as a stand-alone pitch by rapping in from the top. We configured the anchors at the top so that this is an easy option. This pitch begins with continuous 5.11 ish climbing off the belay. Make your way to a massive undercling traverse and a nice rest. From the rest, a very thin series of micro moves culminate in a climactic finish at a jug rail (5.12).  We thought it was about 12b/c, but we had been bolting in the cold and wind all day, so it may feel slightly easier in better conditions.