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Routes in Lincoln Lake Slabs

Another Load of Ginormous Excitement (aka The Cichon Variation) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Horns S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Codeine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Columbine Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dan Hare's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dear Sergio T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Double Exposure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Easy Flakes (name unknown) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Emancipation Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ewoks Don't Sport Climb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 R
Gettysburg Address S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Goat Yoga S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Slab T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Jabba T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C0 PG13
Keasbey Nights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kneel Armstrong T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lincoln Lake Apron T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Loose Bolt Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Marzipan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pika S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Secret Ramp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Short Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sick Puppy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport Dike S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Puffy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
West Colfax S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ken Trout, Marsha Trout, Jeroen vanWolferen, Andrew
Page Views: 5,244 total · 76/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Mar 17, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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For decades I assumed someone else like Bill Forrest, George Lowe, Noel Childs, Jeff Lowe, or Dan Hare had done this route. Maybe we all thought: "Naaah! It's too easy." Surprisingly, the apron has 3 really good pitches following thin cracks and dikes.

Originally the route ended with a terribly dangerous friction run out on the most suspect holds of the climb. Later, I rapped in and added a bolt. The first three belays are equipped with rappel hardware on double bolt anchors, so we can all get down with single 60 meter rope if it rains (hand drilled). The first pitch starts at 12,000 feet above sea level in an alpine paradise close to a paved road.


First ascent afternoon shade.
Pitch one is only 30 meters long and ends at a nice ledge with two bolts. Start up a thin crack, step right to another thin seam that dead-ends, and then move left to a corner. The gear in these seams is tricky.

First ascent.
It is possible to make a long reach to place a #3 Camalot in the corner's big crack, before committing to the leftward step-across. Another big cam is handy a few moves up, before committing to a mossy, left hand jam and another big step out right to better holds. A few moves higher, move left again across the top of the corner and up left even more to the belay (5.7+, PG-13).

Pitch two, first ascent.
Pitch two has a tricky step left to change cracks. There is a two bolt anchor on a dike foothold at 30 meters, handy for escaping storms. Or just use one of the bolts for pro and keep going up a beautiful dike to the top. Near the top, the nice holds thin out and the rock gets crumbly, but a bolt protects that bit. There is a third bolted rap anchor at the top of the slab. Alternatively, you can belay off fat-finger-sized cams up left on a nice ledge.

First ascent.
I like to do one more roped pitch straight up. It is mostly very easy, but there is a final, 5.2, squeeze/bulge where a hand or finger-sized cam is nice.

It is possible to connect to a harder sport pitch for an exposed finish on Emancipation Arete. Traverse left and down until a semi-hanging two bolt belay is found.
The exposed finish marked in yellow.

Overview topo.


Mount Evans, CO.


A full rack up to #3 Camalot.


I found P2 to be the more difficult pitch, and I thought it was more deserving of the PG-13 rating than P1. The dike area is blank and crumbly, and despite the low angle of the slab, requires delicate foot smearing and micro-crimp hands, especially up high. The bolt Ken added about 1/2 way up the P2 slab was very welcome for chickens like me--even with the bolt, the leader faces a 40 foot low-angle fall by the time they get to it. AWESOME climb! Aug 6, 2014
Very nice route, Ken. Since you asked, the bolt on P2/P3 (depending on how you climb it) is welcome and just right. I don't think the pitch needs another bolt. Jun 28, 2016
Another AWESOME Trout route. Thank you, Team Trout!!!!! Jul 9, 2016
Alan Prehmus
littleton, co
  5.7+ R
Alan Prehmus   littleton, co
  5.7+ R
The Apron is great.
The seam 15 ft to the right of the second & third pitch goes nicely too (for me on TR). Its crux is the 10 ft of 5.8 smearing at the top of the 20 ft gap between the cracks. The cracks show some gardening, so I think its been lead. I'd give it an R: The runout is less than the Apron, but it's on much less positive holds. Jul 9, 2017

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