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Routes in Lincoln Lake Slabs
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A Line T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Another Load of Ginormous Excitement (aka The Cichon Variation) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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B Line T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Balisong S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Big Horns S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Codeine S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Columbine Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dan Hare's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Dear Sergio T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Double Exposure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Easy Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Easy Flakes (name unknown) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Emancipation Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ewoks Don't Sport Climb T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b C0 PG13 |
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Gettysburg Address S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Goat Yoga S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Golden Slab T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Gorilla Steps, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Jabba T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C1 PG13 |
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Jack & Sally T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Keasbey Nights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Kneel Armstrong T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Left Colfax? S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left Side New Routes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lincoln Lake Apron T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Loose Bolt Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Marzipan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Pika S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pneumoxia Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Secret Ramp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Short Arete S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sick Puppy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sport Dike S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Strobe Light Rodeo S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Uncle Puffy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown Traverse S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unlisted Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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West Colfax S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.6178, -105.6056 |
| FA: | Savana Dumler, Dakota Millard. Sept. 2019 |
| Page Views: | 1,419 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Dakota Millard on Sep 2, 2019 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 - road closure
Details
Description
P1. Climb a slab with one bolt to a crack, and follow this crack to a ledge. Then climb the next obvious crack to another slab with two bolts to a horizontal break in the wall with a 2 bolt anchor. This is a good warm-up, 5.easy climbing to the 5.8 bolted slab. Protection: 3 bolts, brass and microcams (5.8, 100 feet).
P2. Friction and smear your way past 5 bolts up the path of most resistance (slab daddies, beware). Find another 2 bolt anchor below a shallow roof. This has awesome movement on less-than-vertical, nearly featureless slab. Protection: 5 bolts (5.10a/b, 50 feet).
P3. Place gear in the shallow roof, and move up and slightly climbers right into a flaring crack, place gear here (where you get it), and move up to the first bolt. Be careful not to move too far right off the belay as there is a large hollow sounding flake that appears to be completely detached from the wall, tread lightly. Tiptoe up the slab past two bolts trending up and slightly right to another shallow roof, place gear, and trend up and right to the next bolt. One more gear placement is possible before continuing up and right to the anchors of P3 of Lincoln Lake Apron. Protection: 3 bolts, finger and thin hands-sized cams (5.7, 100 feet).
Descent: rappel Lincoln Lake Apron. There is also a set of anchors 20 feet climber's left from the top of P3 of Lincoln Lake Apron that allows Jack & Sally to be rapped. Currently Jack & Sally's P1 & P2 anchors are equipped with quick links for rappelling - 3 raps, a 70m rope is recommended.
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