Avg: 3 from 4 votes
Routes in The Tan Buttresses
|Anniversary Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Astro Goat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0|
|Black and Tan Towers, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Damn it Feels Good to be a Hamsta T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Dog Fight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Fallen Angel T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Gimp Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Goat Food T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Hard to Say T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Hoag-Fisher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Lazy Sunday Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|MOAC Memorial Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Musafar's Home Cookin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Noth'N But a Good Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|Pin Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Space Miser T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Work-Life Balance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 550 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||J. Finkelstein, B. Collett|
|Page Views:||186 total, 3/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Collett on Jun 4, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is another fun, exposed route on the Tan Buttresses. The crux pitch has some wild climbing in airy positions.
1) After starting in a funky chimney feature, follow the corner system for 180 feet or so to a nice ledge. Generally stay on the right side of the depression with a number of pleasant handcrack sections, 5.10.
2) Follow the dihedral system above the belay for 30 feet or so until you can step right to climb a fun little series of flakes. Step right again and follow an inset to a ledge. Move 25 feet left on the ledge and follow a corner to a nice ledge at 110 feet and belay there, 5.9.
3) Continue up the corner system/left leaning ramp for 30 feet or so until you reach the right side of a large ledge. At this point, head straight up some thought provoking climbing towards an obtuse dihedral feature. Climb the airy crack on the left side of this feature onto the headwall and follow the features out left towards the top of the Goat Food dihedral. There is an exposed, punchy little face traverse to get into the Goat Food crack. Follow the crack to a decent ledge and belay below a steep hand and OW crack. 5.11, 190 feet.
4) Follow the steep crack to the top, per Astro Goat. 5.10-, 50 feet.
5) Scramble to the top.