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Routes in The Aprons

1st Apron, Left Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
2nd Apron Center T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
2nd Apron Far Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
2nd Apron Left Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
2nd Apron Right Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
2nd Apron, Right Side Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
3rd Apron Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Cheap Date [1st Apron] T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Napkin (2nd Apron), The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slip and Slide [1st Apron] T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, Alpine, 710 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,296 total, 26/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 9, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

This is an alpine treat of snack like portions. It requires a 30 minute approach from the Summit Lake parking lot. Hey, they charge for the drive by 750am. This started closer to the center of the Apron, I believe in the question mark-like crack. Some have felt the cracks are a bit flared, it's alpinesque.

P1. Climb a right-angling crack that can be wet, break left when you can, fire up an overlap, then go up over multiple short slabs angling right to a decent belay at a crack, 5.7, 200 feet.

P2. Angle left, lieback a right-facing corner, up a crack until it peters out, traverse left to a cool dike 5.7 (close up picture in this area) and angle left to a semi-hanging belay, 200 feet. You can use a #9 hex, 0.75 Camalot, red Alien, and wire for the belay.

P3. Go up over an overlap and then the angle lessens to a good ledge, 200 feet.

P4. Continue up easy ground with an optional 5.8 corner to the top, 110 feet.

Hitchhike or walkoff left and down the hiking trail past the 1st Apron or right past the 3rd Apron and down an obvious gully.

Protection

A standard light rack of wires, hexes, and cams to #4 Camalot. 60m ropes nice.
I climbed this today for my first alpine route and my first 14er. It was a lot of fun, but like others mention, there is lichen everywhere. I even pulled on some sod for balance on one move. There are some great cracks underneath, but it can be hard to protect with all the lichen. I'm pretty sure were off route after our second pitch. We did it in 4 long pitches using all of a 70m twice. We travelled light with a single rack and a set of nuts. Expect easy, long runouts and plenty of route finding. There was also one section with some huge, loose flakes. Have fun out there. Aug 9, 2015
Buff Johnson
  5.7 R
Buff Johnson  
  5.7 R
The best parts of this route, moderate climbing on good rock quality rock, good protection placements for the belay stations, scenery is awesome, and no touristas. The worst parts were finding just about every seam was a flare, pro was R, and T-storms threats.

Toping out was absolutely amazing. A great alpine climb without much in the way of loose rock or holds, somewhat harder than the First Flatiron East Face (Direct Route 5.6R or 5.6s??).

You'll wander on this route, 2 half (double) ropes @ 60m were a good choice. My last pitch, to make the final ledge, I had rope stretch to spare and 30-40 feet of runout behind me; not to mention the last pitch had a choice of 3 scary looking flares right off of the belay (however the belay was solid, I anticipated a factor 2 and had put in 5 bomber placements - I guess this was due to the exposure). I used pro to 3.5" with a set of tri-cams (I should have left some of the handsized cams at home and used tri-cams for these sizes instead.) Jan 21, 2006
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
Just did this route today. I think we ended up too far left and finished on the Left Route. The route is covered with lichen and moss. Under the lichen and moss is some solid alpine granite. As of today, there is still snow in the descent gully and a small snowfield remains at the base of the apron. The pic from Leo was most helpful. THANKS!! Jul 5, 2004