Type: Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 554 total · 2/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Feb 23, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This could be an alpine slabber's paradise. This 3rd Apron from the left is probably the lowest angled one of the bunch but is the smoothest as well. It requires a 25-30 minute approach from Summit Lake parking area.

P1. This is starts near what appears to be a rounded arete on the right side of the Apron. Fire up 80 feet of low-angled rock without protection until you gain a thin crack (5.7) that takes wires & small cams to a nice ledge, 150 feet.

P2. Go up and left to a shallow, left-facing dihedral, then left to a right-facing dihedral and friction (5.7) up to a small stance, 140 feet. #5, 6? hexes are useful for belay.

P3. Friction up 5.7 with little pro (psychological crux) and move right to an angling stance, 150 feet. A #2 TCU and hex useful for belay.

P4. Continue up over an overlap, up, finally left across arete to spacious belay, 165 feet. A #4 Camalot and 2 longer slings useful for belay.

P5. 3rd class to the top.

Make a quick descent in obvious gully to the right. This is fun, a bit spicy for a 5.7 leader. It was followed by a first-time ever climber.

Protection

A standard light rack of wires, hexes, and cams to #4 Camalot. 50m ropes adequate.

Photos