Type: Trad, Alpine, 780 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 206 total · 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 13, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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1.5 stars. Not as good as the Right and Center lines on this apron. P2-4 are decent.

Another line up this slab. We discovered on this trip to do another line up this "climb anywhere you want" slab/apron that it may not be as "climb anywhere" as described. Sorry. Probably too much detail on this route:

Initially, an effort up the middle between Right and Center routes, there is an inviting thin crack. It has a pin about 35-40 ft up. Then it gets thinner and more runout. So, my partner bailed and rapped. Too close to the ground and far enough from the car....

Second try, further left. Not sure if this is entirely independent from the Second Apron Left side 5.8+ R described by Darin Lang [on] this site. However, verbal descriptions don't quite match. On the left side of this buttress there is a 3rd-4th class ramp.

P1. About where this start to go up, went up & found a shallow, left-facing dihedral that was inviting but pro was marginal. About 50 feet up here, you dance out right on rounded face holds aiming for a overlap with what looked like pro opportunities but given the marginal cams below you're looking at a groundfall from 60 feet up if you don't make it. So backed down, moved left into a somewhat grungier section that is probably wet during less-arid years. Looking for moderate ways up & right onto the main apron to the right, followed an arc to its left end but backed down and traversed left to a 1-1 1/2" crack & a stance. 200 feet of dancing but 100 feet up, 5.5. One of my partners 3rd classed up the ramp to here.

P2. Move up & left, aiming for a short, wide, zig-zag crack to gain this upper layer of good granite on the apron, then move up & generally slightly R as you dance back and forth on solid granite. For a small landmark, there is a right-pointing flake next to a thin crack, both of which take wires, that you pass to the right. For a larger landmark for the rest of the climb, you generally aim for just right of the what-appears-to-be two short, bulging headwalls (goalposts) at the top. Aim for a small ledge with a flake on the L & a good hex slot on the right. 200 feet, 5.7.

P3. Move about 10 feet left & into a shallow, left-facing dihedral with some vegetation. Move up to a raised flake on the right, slot a wire, move back down slightly and then right. Gain a nice foot ramp with finer grained granite. Arc right & then left, climbing over a left-facing dihedral, aiming for an A-shaped overlap. Place a wire. This overlap protects a fair bit of moss/lichen still present. Delicately smear left & move up into the apex (crux) to gain a good finger/hand slot. Balance up. A foot traverse left & up gets you to a good ledge. 200 feet, 5.8.

P4. Continue up the dihedral & right, go up a short slab on slightly crumbly holds, move R into a slot angling right & up. Go up & then left along a short arĂȘte to a huge ledge & belay. 2 hexes and a wire. 180 feet, 5.7.

P5. Lots of exits here are possible.

P5A. A nice, short, steep, finger to offwidth crack gains 3rd-4th class terrain.

P5B. A short bit of 5th class moves to the left and then back right into a slot pops you up on top. 105 feet, 5.6.

To descend, move down and right into the loose gully right of the rightmost apron. Contour along the rightmost apron, and then up to your gear (if you left any at the base).

It may be possible to exit left from P1 or P2 onto 3rd-4th class terrain. Sun until 230p in August.

Also, cell phones work well up here if you are on call, expecting a call or baby, etc.


Wires, hexes, single set of cams to 3 1/2", 60m rope useful.