Type: Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Don Schmidt and Chris Carr
Page Views: 198 total · 1/month
Shared By: Chris Carr on Feb 26, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This [route] starts about a third of the way up on the left side of the 1st Apron. Climb up the snowfield on the left of the Apron until you are roughly 1/3 of the way up. You'll see several ledges on the apron on your right that may or may not have snow (in mid July they did).

Select the ledge easiest for you to access from the snowfield (it really doesn't matter which one, they all intersect the route). Once on the ledge, climb up and to the left on slippery slabs with lots of moss and lichen in places until you come to a long slightly sloping ledge about 100 feet up. Belay from here.

Continue up and left for three more pitches of deteriorating quality, each slabs, with sections of crack 150 feet in length.

After the 4th pitch, we bailed off via a ledge that lead off to the left and back onto the snow. I suppose it's possible to keep going straight up to the top of the Apron, but the pitches were decreasingly safe - the fourth pitch took only one [piece] of solid pro.

I'm sorry I cannot provide any more detail as to the route itself, this is because there really are no clearly defined features to the route, nor is there any fixed pro for [landmarks]. This also provides for several variation options should you want to give it a go. Be prepared for wet, sloppy conditions and watch the weather.

Protection

Set of nuts, set of cams from .5" to 3.5" or so. A few medium size hexes and a 60m rope is nice, for linking pitches but not essential.

Photos

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Chris Carr
  5.9
Chris Carr  
  5.9
I was just looking at some photos of the route taken in June and the entire route looks to be sopping wet due to snow melt from the lower angled slabs and ledges aroud the route. I would advise against climbing this route when wet due to the low angle and lack of real protection. -Cheers Mar 6, 2002