Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Josh Tartakoff, Nathan Muncy, Casey Barnum
Page Views: 1,478 total · 19/month
Shared By: Nate Muncy on Jul 4, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This may be a variation of Slip and Slide or may already be a different route (beta/topo for which I cannot find). If so, I'll make the appropriate adjustments.

This route is found on the left side of the 1st Apron, right next to the glacier. Approach from the parking lot of Summit Lake by heading WSW to The Aprons, approximately 30 min. The first Apron is the left-most face, which faces ENE.

Pitch 1 - 4-5th class, we free-soloed approximately 300 feet until we felt that we were pulling low grade 5th class moves (5.6). We built an anchor in a right-trending flake system about level with the large roof to the far right.

Pitch 2 - 55m, 5.6. From the flake system, climb follow up the most natural route. Gear placement is sparse, requiring some thoughtful placements 30-40 feet apart (the first placement won't happen for 50 feet or so). Belay from a grassy ledge with less-than-comfortable placements.

Pitch 3 - 65m, 5.6. Follow up on the slab with runout placements. Belay from atop a rounded, left-trending, sloping ramp.

Pitch 4 - 65m, 5.7. Start and trend left on steeper climbing, navigating some mini-roofs. There are much better gear placements. After pulling over, head straight up slab climbing to a grassy ledge you could pitch a tent on, with a great vertical crack for a top belay station.

Pitch 5 - 65m, 5.6. Head straight up on slab and a bit left gunning for the ridge. Stop after nearly 70m on a grassy ramp that leads towards the ridge line. Gear placement ok on this pitch.

Pitch 6 - 60m, 3rd class. Unrope and walk up the grassy ramp to the ridge line. Descend 25 feet to find the trail that will take you (left, SSE) to the parking lot.

There is lots and lots of choss - test everything. There is tons of lichen also.
It is an easy climb but not an ideal first trad lead due to runouts and tricky placements. Each pitch only took 4-5 pieces of pro.

A 70m rope would be a good idea, some pitch distances may be closer to 70m.
I could imagine that some people would also rate this route PG-13.

Protection

Basic rack, hexes will be your friend.

Photos