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Routes in The Aprons

1st Apron, Left Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
2nd Apron Center T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
2nd Apron Far Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
2nd Apron Left Side T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
2nd Apron Right Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
2nd Apron, Right Side Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
3rd Apron Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Cheap Date [1st Apron] T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Napkin (2nd Apron), The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slip and Slide [1st Apron] T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,313 total, 7/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Feb 23, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is on the 1st Apron (left one) from Summit Lake Cirque. This route sketchily described in Peter Hubbel's Front Range Crags. It is an interesting adventure, is bigger than you might guess, and climbs steeper than it looks. It requires a 30 minute approach. Due to fair bit of snow, the start can vary.

P1. We traversed in from the left towards the obvious, big, left-facing dihedral. This 1st pitch (?300 feet) involved a bit of simul-climbing on low-angled slab with spots of 5.7 R to a belay near an overlap. There is a pin near here.

P2. We went up and left into a crack to a stance. Here decipher a perplexing, runout slab 5.9 to a ledge, traverse right into a dihedral which can be alpine (a bit loose and licheny), 160 feet. #2 and #3 Friends are useful at this semi-hanging belay.

P3. Fire up dihedral to a ledge with fixed wires, up a steep section to a semihanging belay in a sort-of nook below a bulging bit. Wires and #3.5 & #1.5 Friends are useful for belay.

P4. The crux is on this pitch & is listed as 5.7 in the "topo." Steep crack/face climbing off the belay that feels 9+ gets you to a 5.7 overhanging, offwidth/dihedral at nearly 14,000 feet. A #5 Camalot(s) is useful here unless you have great arm bar & heel toe technique. Suddenly, it eases off as you wonder what the heck you ate to make that 5.7 feel so... um... er... challenging.

P5-7 or 8. Climb about 600 feet more of easy rock to the top.

It is about 1400 feet of roped climbing in all. There is a fair bit of fixed gear on the route, probably from someone's epic.

Yep, a wee bit harder than the 2nd or 3rd Apron. Hitchhike or walk down the hiking trail to the left.

Protection

Wires, cams - tiniest Aliens to #5 Camalot. A second #5 Camalot might be comforting. 200 foot ropes.

Photos

Taylor-B.
Valdez, AK
Taylor-B.   Valdez, AK
I've approached the dihedral directly. Climb 1 pitch up to the giant chockstone and belay. Pull around the left into the dihedral, the rock in here is kind of kitty-litter and spicy. Great route! Jul 11, 2012