Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches|
|Page Views:||2,011 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Feb 23, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
P1. We traversed in from the left towards the obvious, big, left-facing dihedral. This 1st pitch (?300 feet) involved a bit of simul-climbing on low-angled slab with spots of 5.7 R to a belay near an overlap. There is a pin near here.
P2. We went up and left into a crack to a stance. Here decipher a perplexing, runout slab 5.9 to a ledge, traverse right into a dihedral which can be alpine (a bit loose and licheny), 160 feet. #2 and #3 Friends are useful at this semi-hanging belay.
P3. Fire up dihedral to a ledge with fixed wires, up a steep section to a semihanging belay in a sort-of nook below a bulging bit. Wires and #3.5 & #1.5 Friends are useful for belay.
P4. The crux is on this pitch & is listed as 5.7 in the "topo." Steep crack/face climbing off the belay that feels 9+ gets you to a 5.7 overhanging, offwidth/dihedral at nearly 14,000 feet. A #5 Camalot(s) is useful here unless you have great arm bar & heel toe technique. Suddenly, it eases off as you wonder what the heck you ate to make that 5.7 feel so... um... er... challenging.
P5-7 or 8. Climb about 600 feet more of easy rock to the top.
It is about 1400 feet of roped climbing in all. There is a fair bit of fixed gear on the route, probably from someone's epic.
Yep, a wee bit harder than the 2nd or 3rd Apron. Hitchhike or walk down the hiking trail to the left.