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Routes in The Black Wall

Ant Farm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Cannonball Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cary Granite T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Coffee Achievers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Emerald Highway, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Escape Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Espresso T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Good Evans T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Harry Cary T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Variance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Rappel Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Parallel Universe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 R
Phil-a-Guster T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rainbow Highway T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Road Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rusty Dagger, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Seven Sins (linkup of S.O.A.S into H.V.) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Sinners On Sunday T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0
Undertow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4- R
Undertow (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1-
Type: Trad, Alpine, 480 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Greg Cameron and Clean Dan Grandusky
Page Views: 15,258 total, 97/month
Shared By: Greg Cameron on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the obvious crack system just left of Good Evans. We did this in 1990, wrote it up in the old, loose-leaf guidebook at the Bucksnort, but the guidebook was since stolen.

P1) Climb the first pitch of Good Evans (5.10d).

P2) From the belay stance, continue straight up the Rappel Route about 80 feet past two sections of 5.10/5.10+ lieback followed by a 5.11- undercling. Belay just left of the obvious splitter crack that begins here and extends all the way to the top of the wall.

P3) Move right on 5.11b/c face moves to the incipient crack and then move up (5.11b) past a couple of small roofs. The crack widens from fingers to hands and then to hands and fists. Belay at the stance in the crack.

P4) Continue up the crack (5.9 - 5.10) past the large roof on your right to a stance in the crack. Nearly every placement on this pitch is a number 3 to 4 Camalot size.

P5) Follow the crack for a short easy pitch to the top.

Protection

Doubles to 4", (triple on the 2") plus a 4.5" cam.
jesseg  
Climbed this yesterday with a group of three. Amazing rock, position, and excellent protection abound. Definitely think the first pitch is much harder than the second. The second pitch has great finger locks while stemming through the first section, crisp layback edges for the second section, and massive jugs through the undercling traverse. The roof pitch is incredible with perfect holds/jams (after the traverse, which I went very low), it's just a matter of getting enough oxygen to your muscles. My partner set up a belay on top of the 3rd pitch on the ledge 10 feet left of the crack as mentioned above. Highly recommended, very comfortable with great views, a single bolt and several small cam placements to equalize. We had the entire wall to ourselves which baffles me. Rack suggestions- nuts, small offset wires, doubles #0.3-#4 BD, singles #0-#2 BD C3s, one #5 BD (nice but not necessary). We did supplement some of double BD cams with offset X4s. Aug 14, 2017
Did this route today with Evan Deis. Amazing climbing throughout!

One thing we noticed is that the thin flake you grab after pulling the crux roof on pitch 3 is detached. I don't think it will go anytime soon, but be careful. Jul 24, 2017
WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
Single fingers, double 0.5-4, set of alloys would be great.

Fixed nut on P1.
P2 is great stemming and layback.
P3 - traverse is fairly straightforward. Downclimb off belay, and then keep your crimp hand strong. Roof is bomber #2s - easier I thought than Vertigo roof.
P4/5 - wide for a short stint, then steep jugs to the top!

Great route!!!

Could run in two pitches with smart use of slings. Sep 8, 2015
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Some gear beta I wish I'd had for the 2nd pitch: place your small gear in the first part (takes great nuts), and make sure to save your #0.5-1 Camalots for the second half! The belay takes cams from #0.75-3.

The traverse was rowdy! I took some whippers before figuring out the sequence, which involved some weird left hand-foot match while down stepping...funky! Be careful not to swing back into the flake - could get ugly. Aug 18, 2015
Hoag Hoag
Littleton, CO
  5.11c
Hoag Hoag   Littleton, CO
  5.11c
Excellent route! Far more laybacking than I expected, which resulted in some serious pump and a lot of wind-sucking.

We brought a BD #5 and found it very helpful in protecting the 11- roof at the end of pitch two as well as the top of pitch 3 where the crack widens to offwidth. It's helpful on pitch 4 as well, but the climbing is easy enough on 4 that running it out isn't all that bad.

We did the route in 4 pitches by combining pitches 4 and 5. This provided for good rests between pitches while speeding up the process a bit to avoid afternoon storms.

RAPPEL INFO: you can rap down the left side of the wall with a single 70m rope. Start at the long chains and look climber's right of the large pillar as you go down. There are two more nearly full-length raps from there to get down to the ramp where you'll traverse to the right to gain the large flake that is the first pitch of GE and CG. I believe you can rap with a single 60m as well but down a different route. Take a look at other comments for that info. Jul 15, 2014
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
On Aug. 24th, some guys were doing a long 2 rope rap near CG and dislodged a 0.75 cam when they pulled the rope. Not sure who they were though.... Sep 19, 2013
Mike O'Mara and I climbed this route in mid-August and dropped a green Camalot off the second pitch. It landed on a ledge about 2/3s the way up the first pitch and about 15 feet to the left. If it's still there and you find it and would like to return it to us, message me on here or keep it and pretend you didn't read this. Sep 18, 2013
Nate Weitzel  
 
Did Carey Granite today with Quinn Stevens. This is a fantastic route and one that I have been wanting to do for a while. Truly each pitch is great, good climbing, excellent position and exposure, and fun. The traverse is a bit heady After trying using the "high" beta and falling, I used the crimps for my hands (low beta) and definitely think this is the best and most secure way. Really not too bad. The hand crack out the roof is awesome.

As for the gear, I really liked having both a #4 and #5 BD cam for the upper wide part. While you could skip this, I suppose, why? It fits nearly the whole way and makes for an enjoyable time.

Conditions right now are great. Wall is pretty dry everywhere you want to climb.





Aug 6, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.11c
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.11c
Awesome route on great rock. I was pretty fond of having the #5 Camalot with me for the wide stuff. I'd say bring one if you're thinking about whether or not, you should. Pitch 2 is a classic pitch as well that doesn't get hyped on the site... it's super duper. Protects well though it doesn't seem like it would. We had single C3s from green to yellow, double 0.3-4 and a single #5 Camalot. 10 alpine draws that didn't all get used on each pitch. Could probably do with 8 or so. Jul 10, 2013
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
It looks like you can do the 5.11 traverse three different ways.
-Hands on the horizontal with bad feet
-Feet on the horizontal using the low side pulls
-If you are over ~6'2", you can grab a great crimp halfway so the hard moves are right next to your gear.

I would recommend taping your 3 middle fingers on both hands. The flake above the roof is SHARP! The 1st 20ft of P4 would be unprotected without a #5 C4. I guess if you have small knees, the climbing would be very secure. Sep 1, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11 PG13
Best of the routes on the wall. Don't let the grades or stories intimidate you. If you can climb 5.11, you can do this. Aug 20, 2012
Does it get much better than this? A must do for the area. Jun 10, 2012
Lizzy Scully
Lyons, Colorado
Lizzy Scully   Lyons, Colorado
This route is stunning, one of the most splitter I have done in Colorado. Hard traverse, followed by a radical, steep roof on the crux. Awesome! My partner cut her fingers going over the roof as well, so tape is a good idea. I accidentally ran the crux & following pitch together. It worked out well. There was very little rope drag. I brought too much gear. Didn't place anything smaller than a 0.3 Camalot and only a few nuts, but 2 of everything else up to #4 is nice. No #5 necessary. There are two small fixed nuts in the bottom crux. The pitch would be better if they were taken out. Aug 7, 2011
joel douglas
Denver CO
joel douglas   Denver CO
Just did this route yesterday and it was rad. After the crux traverse pitch into the hand crack over the roof, we made an anchor 20' above the roof using a BD #3 and #4. The next pitch took us to the top of the wall. This pitch required leap frogging a BD #5 for roughly 60' of well-featured, wide crack climbing into 5.6 face to the top. Jul 27, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11c
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11c
Great Route!
Couple notes: rack wise bring one blue Metolius/red C3, doubles from #0.4- #4. You could tripple up on 3s, but I didn't see any reason to.

As for the belay on top of the crux pitch, my #4 didn't fit the crack, but there is a nice ledge out left with a bolt that you can equalize with some small pieces.
Get on it! Aug 5, 2009
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
Sick route with tricky "Co. welcome party-like traverse" ! followed by upside down perfect hands out a roof! Sep 3, 2007
Greg Cameron  
 
Just did this again yesterday with Tom Dickey. The flake that you need to pull on at the crux is so sharp that I cut my fingers pretty badly this go round. I would definitely suggest taping your fingers at the first and third joints. Jul 30, 2007
This is a nice alpine outing that doesn't seem to get done very much judging by the super sharp, clean cracks. Expect a little loose rock here and there, but overall the quality is good. Pitch 1 & 2 combine for a great long 5.11 pitch with ~20 ft of simul climbing. P3 is relatively short, ~ 80 ft, but it takes a lot of cams 1.5" - 4.5", double 2.5" - 4". P4 & 5 also combine easily into one 5.10- pitch. Double ropes are nice to have as you could practically TR the dicey traverse. Bring a few extra units for the belays on P2 (mid-range) & P3 (4"). Jul 15, 2006