Avg: 3.8 from 66 votes
Routes in The Black Wall
|Ant Farm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|Cannonball Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Cary Granite T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Coffee Achievers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Emerald Highway, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Escape Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Espresso T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Good Evans T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Harry Cary T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|High Variance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Old Rappel Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Parallel Universe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 R|
|Phil-a-Guster T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Rainbow Highway T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Road Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Rusty Dagger, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Seven Sins (linkup of S.O.A.S into H.V.) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13|
|Sinners On Sunday T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0|
|Undertow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4- R|
|Undertow (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1-|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 480 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Greg Cameron and Clean Dan Grandusky|
|Page Views:||15,258 total, 97/month|
|Shared By:||Greg Cameron on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is the obvious crack system just left of Good Evans. We did this in 1990, wrote it up in the old, loose-leaf guidebook at the Bucksnort, but the guidebook was since stolen.
P1) Climb the first pitch of Good Evans (5.10d).
P2) From the belay stance, continue straight up the Rappel Route about 80 feet past two sections of 5.10/5.10+ lieback followed by a 5.11- undercling. Belay just left of the obvious splitter crack that begins here and extends all the way to the top of the wall.
P3) Move right on 5.11b/c face moves to the incipient crack and then move up (5.11b) past a couple of small roofs. The crack widens from fingers to hands and then to hands and fists. Belay at the stance in the crack.
P4) Continue up the crack (5.9 - 5.10) past the large roof on your right to a stance in the crack. Nearly every placement on this pitch is a number 3 to 4 Camalot size.
P5) Follow the crack for a short easy pitch to the top.