Type: Trad, Alpine, 480 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Greg Cameron and Clean Dan Grandusky
Page Views: 18,751 total · 101/month
Shared By: Greg Cameron on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


82 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the obvious crack system just left of Good Evans. We did this in 1990, wrote it up in the old, loose-leaf guidebook at the Bucksnort, but the guidebook was since stolen.

P1. Climb the first pitch of Good Evans (5.10d).

P2. From the belay stance, continue straight up the Rappel Route about 80 feet past two sections of 5.10/5.10+ lieback followed by a 5.11- undercling. Belay just left of the obvious splitter crack that begins here and extends all the way to the top of the wall.

P3. Move right on 5.11b/c face moves to the incipient crack and then move up (5.11b) past a couple of small roofs. The crack widens from fingers to hands and then to hands and fists. Belay at the stance in the crack.

P4. Continue up the crack (5.9 - 5.10) past the large roof on your right to a stance in the crack. Nearly every placement on this pitch is a number 3 to 4 Camalot size.

P5. Follow the crack for a short easy pitch to the top.

Protection

Doubles to 4", (triple on the 2") plus a 4.5" cam.

Photos