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Routes in The Dali Area
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Big Perm V5 6C |
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Big Worm V14 8B+ |
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Carl Spackler's Thumb (Name Unknown) V1 5 |
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Clear Blue Skies V12 8A+ |
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Crystal Grip Pump V2 5+ |
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Dali Sit Down Start, The V8 7B |
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Dali Stand Start, The V6 7A |
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Dali Warmup, The V1 5 |
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Frosted Flakes V4 6B |
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Lama V1 5 |
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Little Something for the Effort (Name Unknown) V2 5+ |
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Mental Pollution V10 7C+ |
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Mental Pollution Low AKA Mental Masturbation V12 8A+ |
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Mirror Mask V10- 7C+ |
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Nemesis V1 5 |
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No More Greener Grasses V12 8A+ |
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Ode to the Modern Man V14 8B+ |
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Pat's Arete V7 7A+ PG13 |
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Puddle Jumper V2+ 5+ |
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Super Gui V11 8A |
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Touchdown Jesus V2 5+ |
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Vanilla Chip V0 4 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Boulder, Alpine, 15 ft |
| FA: | Bennett Scott |
| Page Views: | 4,615 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Jul 24, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Most of these boulders are within the Mt Evans Wilderness Area, regulated & patrolled by the US.
Details
Most boulders are located within the Mt. Evans Wilderness Area, regulated & patrolled by the USFS. Climbers should be on their best behavior, practice Leave No Trace. Please abide by these requirements: it can take vegetation decades to recover from damage. Place crash pads judiciously, & keep brushing to a minimum. Before adding new lines, considered the damage that may be caused by additional foot traffic, pads, etc.
Chalk is unsightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, & in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every session. Use containers that prevent chalk spills & if you do spill, clean it up.
Stashing crash pads is forbidden by the USFS. Pads will be confiscated.
Noise: this is a Wilderness area that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are f-bombs, iPod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to lose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups.
Dogs must be leashed at all times, they scare wildlife. Obviously, clean up after your dog.
Remember we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users & the USFS Rangers that manage this area.
Chalk is unsightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, & in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every session. Use containers that prevent chalk spills & if you do spill, clean it up.
Stashing crash pads is forbidden by the USFS. Pads will be confiscated.
Noise: this is a Wilderness area that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are f-bombs, iPod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to lose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups.
Dogs must be leashed at all times, they scare wildlife. Obviously, clean up after your dog.
Remember we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users & the USFS Rangers that manage this area.
Description
The notoriety of this boulder problem is quite amazing considering the relative scarcity of information about the area. This line is truly known the world over, and its not uncommon to see an international crowd exchanging beta & spots at the base. The Dalis fame is not unjustified; the problem has a bit of everything: shoulder pressing, micro crimping, devious footwork, all-out dynos and heel-hooks. None of the moves are extremely difficult by themselves, but they are all hard, and sap just enough juice to make that simple throw at the end a great deal more difficult, and heartbreaking.
Begin sitting down as low as you can, with your right foot on a good 2 horizontal ledge down in the crevice. Both hands are matched on the 2, vertically-oriented, let-facing sidepull/gaston. Get the left foot on, and press up to the sickle-shaped crimp/pocket, then up to the next left-facing sidepull/gaston thats ~2 above the start hold. From here head back left to setup for the big toss to the obvious sloper rail. This is a good place to fall over and over again. If you ever stick this move, match the rail and traverse right along the rail to a relatively easy topout.
Note: There are a multitude of different ways to start the Dali. A quick perusal of 8a.nu indicates at least 5 different versions, all lacking any sort of consensus grade. The version described here is the low sit down start.
Begin sitting down as low as you can, with your right foot on a good 2 horizontal ledge down in the crevice. Both hands are matched on the 2, vertically-oriented, let-facing sidepull/gaston. Get the left foot on, and press up to the sickle-shaped crimp/pocket, then up to the next left-facing sidepull/gaston thats ~2 above the start hold. From here head back left to setup for the big toss to the obvious sloper rail. This is a good place to fall over and over again. If you ever stick this move, match the rail and traverse right along the rail to a relatively easy topout.
Note: There are a multitude of different ways to start the Dali. A quick perusal of 8a.nu indicates at least 5 different versions, all lacking any sort of consensus grade. The version described here is the low sit down start.
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