Type: Boulder, Alpine, 15 ft (5 m)
FA: Bennett Scott
Page Views: 7,736 total · 43/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jul 24, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Most of these boulders are within the Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans) Wilderness Area, regulated & patrolled by the US. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The notoriety of this boulder problem is quite amazing considering the relative scarcity of information about the area. This line is truly known the world over, and its not uncommon to see an international crowd exchanging beta & spots at the base. The Dali’s fame is not unjustified; the problem has a bit of everything: shoulder pressing, micro crimping, devious footwork, all-out dynos and heel-hooks. None of the moves are extremely difficult by themselves, but they are all hard, and sap just enough juice to make that simple throw at the end a great deal more difficult, and heartbreaking.

Begin sitting down as low as you can, with your right foot on a good 2” horizontal ledge down in the crevice. Both hands are matched on the 2”, vertically-oriented, let-facing sidepull/gaston. Get the left foot on, and press up to the sickle-shaped crimp/pocket, then up to the next left-facing sidepull/gaston that’s ~2’ above the start hold. From here head back left to setup for the big toss to the obvious sloper rail. This is a good place to fall over and over again. If you ever stick this move, match the rail and traverse right along the rail to a relatively easy topout.

Note: There are a multitude of different ways to start the Dali. A quick perusal of 8a.nu indicates at least 5 different versions, all lacking any sort of consensus grade. The version described here is the “low sit down start”.

Location Suggest change

In the center of the South Face of the Dali Boulder, beginning below the lowest part of the broad sloping rail that sits ~8 feet above the ground. Its also about 3 feet left of the Lama flake system.

Protection Suggest change

Several pads and a spotter.