Timeline
V1 YDS 5 Font R
Avg: 3.6 from 61 votes
Type: | Boulder, Alpine, 25 ft (8 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 8,056 total · 45/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on Jul 24, 2009 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Chalk is unsightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, & in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every session. Use containers that prevent chalk spills & if you do spill, clean it up.
Stashing crash pads is forbidden by the USFS. Pads will be confiscated.
Noise: this is a Wilderness area that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are f-bombs, iPod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to lose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups.
Dogs must be leashed at all times, they scare wildlife. Obviously, clean up after your dog.
Remember we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users & the USFS Rangers that manage this area.
Description
This towering highball attracts a lot of attention due to its prominent position at the entrance of Area A. It also demands a great deal of respect. The grade is a bit misleading, as this is not your typical V0. The crux comes right at the top, with extremely insecure moves on slopers and lichen-covered ripples. Fortunately the lower half of the problem is pretty trivial, so if smearing ropeless 20' off the deck is not your idea of fun, it's quite possible to downclimb before entering the guaranteed-paralysis-if-you-fall zone.
Begin on the right end of the SW-facing slab, with easy moves to gain the slab. Continue easily to a tricky step left to a good horn. This is the turn-around point for reasonable folks. For the rest, mantel onto the horn, and grope desperately up the featureless shoot to a huge jug ~18' back from the lip of the slab.
Descend easily to the South, crossing over to the adjacent boulder.
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