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Routes in Bierstadt Area

Type: Boulder, Alpine, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,160 total · 50/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jul 24, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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The majority of these boulders are located within the Mt Evans Wilderness Area, which is regulated & patrolled by the US Forest Service. Climber Details

Description

This towering highball attracts a lot of attention due to its prominent position at the entrance of Area A. It also demands a great deal of respect. The grade is a bit misleading, as this is not your typical V0. The crux comes right at the top, with extremely insecure moves on slopers and lichen-covered ripples. Fortunately the lower half of the problem is pretty trivial, so if smearing ropeless 20’ off the deck is not your idea of fun, its quite possible to down-climb before entering the guaranteed-paralysis-if-you-fall zone.

Begin on the right end of the SW-facing slab, with easy moves to gain the slab. Continue easily to a tricky step left to a good horn. This is the turn-around point for reasonable folks. For the rest, mantle onto the horn and grope desperately up the featureless shoot to a huge jug ~18” back from the lip of the slab. Descend easily to the South, crossing over to the adjacent boulder.

Location

Pass through a cleft between boulders, immediately after passing the problem “Bierstadt”. Once through the cleft, make a hard right, take two steps, and you are there. Timeline heads up to the obvious, left-leaning, open book high on the face.

Protection

As many pads as you can find, brass balls, a stretcher, and a few people to carry it. The landing is flat.

Photos

Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
 
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
 
When I started climbing here this thing was V3, and I remember watching a video of D. Woods back off instead of topping it out. Kinda funny that it's now V0. Jan 26, 2012