The Sober Stoner
V7 YDS 7A+ Font
| Type: | Boulder, Alpine, 11 ft (3 m) |
| GPS: | 39.6326, -105.6211 |
| FA: | Jamie Emerson |
| Page Views: | 915 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Chip Phillips on Jul 31, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Chalk is unsightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, & in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every session. Use containers that prevent chalk spills & if you do spill, clean it up.
Stashing crash pads is forbidden by the USFS. Pads will be confiscated.
Noise: this is a Wilderness area that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are f-bombs, iPod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to lose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups.
Dogs must be leashed at all times, they scare wildlife. Obviously, clean up after your dog.
Remember we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users & the USFS Rangers that manage this area.
Description
Begin from a low sit start matched under the roof in the obvious place, make 2-3 moves on decent edges, then sort out the tricky crux toss/throw to either a faraway jug or a somewhat closer but poor sloping crimp out left. A good problem, but its only 10 feet to the lip and it really only has one "hard" move ... that move is a doozy though.
Location
Walk through the Bierstadt Corridor towards The Ladder, passing Ludders Pinch and Bierstadt on your right. Ten feet after passing Bierstadt, when you exit the A-frame arch/cave, turn around to your left. The Sober Stoner is right in front of you beginning from a sds under a short roof and ascending an up-valley facing bulge.



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