Soul of a Pancake
V5-6 YDS 6C+ Font
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Type: | Boulder, Alpine, 12 ft (4 m) |
FA: | John Chipouras |
Page Views: | 212 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | John Chipouras on Oct 15, 2022 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Chalk is unsightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, & in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every session. Use containers that prevent chalk spills & if you do spill, clean it up.
Stashing crash pads is forbidden by the USFS. Pads will be confiscated.
Noise: this is a Wilderness area that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are f-bombs, iPod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to lose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups.
Dogs must be leashed at all times, they scare wildlife. Obviously, clean up after your dog.
Remember we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users & the USFS Rangers that manage this area.
Description
Start low in the pit with your left hand on a proper undercling and your right on an undercling sidepull. Work your way up the seam using the blunt arete, stemming, the crack, and whatever you want to keep your sanity from the suspect foot holds.
I got on this intending to warm up on the upper bit then noticed some decent underclings hiding in the pit. It climbs reasonably well, except if you put your feet anywhere but the quality granite, you run into flakey bits that'll probably spit you off. Be mindful when topping out. Both left and right exits work, but the landing isn't great. It could clean up, but it is probably not worth it unless you happen to be up here and need something of that grade.
Location
Up the hill from Public Execution maybe 50 yards, go through some of the bushes to reach a meadow, and it's on the right side of the meadow if you're looking uphill. This won't look like much until you get up on it and notice there's some climbing to be had.
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