Ground Control
V11-12 YDS 8A+ Font
| Type: | Boulder, Alpine, 7 ft (2 m) |
| GPS: | 39.6326, -105.6211 |
| FA: | Christopher Schulte |
| Page Views: | 2,174 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Chip Phillips on Oct 15, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Chalk is unsightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, & in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every session. Use containers that prevent chalk spills & if you do spill, clean it up.
Stashing crash pads is forbidden by the USFS. Pads will be confiscated.
Noise: this is a Wilderness area that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are f-bombs, iPod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to lose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups.
Dogs must be leashed at all times, they scare wildlife. Obviously, clean up after your dog.
Remember we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users & the USFS Rangers that manage this area.
Description
Appropriately named ... due to its small stature and since the crux is avoiding hitting the ground or your pads. Begin from a sds matched on the left corner of the sloper rail under the low roof. Heel-toe cam on the sloper rail with your right foot, make a move with your left hand then bust directly out the roof to a good hold at the lip and surmount the bulge up onto the face. The crux is catching the lip, holding it and not invalidating your ascent by dragging your ass or feet on your pad. Be careful with the heel-toe cam, as it is powerful and a perfect way to tear your LCL.
If this problem were taller and finished with these moves, it would be worthy of more stars and people would fly across oceans to climb it. As it is, it is a lowball 5 foot tall problem with some cool gut-busting moves under a low roof that pulls out onto a slab ... something to try at the end of the day, on a spotty-weather day or while your friends get a few burns in on Bierstadt, etc. It's certainly hard and may be fun, it's just not much to look at and few will be inspired by it.
Location
Ground Control is on the same boulder as Bierstadt, but it's on the opposite side facing the willows just right of an obvious rain shelter cave. Armed with these directions, you can't miss it.



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