Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jeff Lowe and Dan Hare, 1984
Page Views: 27,777 total · 133/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Jul 3, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This is a long offwidth route that will leave you gasping for air at 13,000+ feet of elevation. Much of the crack system is completely featureless on the outside with laybacking the positive edges the only possible respite from direct offwidthing. Road Warrior ascends the left side of the Black Wall and shares three pitches with Good Evans. Rappel from the first set of bolt anchors you come across when you reach the Black Wall. After the second double rope rappel (might need new webbing), scramble downhill until you are standing in front of the wide, splitter crack.

Pitch 1: We climbed the left-facing flake and crack system to its top, 5.7 100'.

Pitch 2: Step left to the crack using a narrow foot ledge. Climb the wide crack for over 100' to a belay ledge with a good bolt, fixed nut, and ring piton you probably don't want to tie into. It is not a bad idea to have a large piece left for this belay, 5.10 110'.

Pitch 3: Do more offwidthing through steeper but more featured rock. The wide stuff ends and some seams and ledges lead up to a nice stance, 5.10 140'.

Pitch 4: This is the same as Good Evans. Climb up into the right-facing corner below the large roof past a couple pins and traverse out the left side of the overhang to an old bolt on a ledge. 5.10 50'.

Pitch 5: Continue on easy ground to the top.

Protection

Single rack of cams and nuts through #3 Camalot. A set of Big Bros with double #2 and triple #3. A #6 Friend or equivalent size is helpful.

Photos