Avg: 3.8 from 26 votes
Routes in The Black Wall
|Ant Farm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|Cannonball Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Cary Granite T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Coffee Achievers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Emerald Highway, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Escape Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Espresso T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Good Evans T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Harry Cary T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|High Variance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Old Rappel Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Parallel Universe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 R|
|Phil-a-Guster T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Rainbow Highway T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Road Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Rusty Dagger, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Seven Sins (linkup of S.O.A.S into H.V.) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13|
|Sinners On Sunday T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0|
|Undertow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4- R|
|Undertow (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1-|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Jeff Lowe and Dan Hare, 1984|
|Page Views:||23,074 total, 131/month|
|Shared By:||Brian Milhaupt on Jul 3, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a long offwidth route that will leave you gasping for air at 13,000+ feet of elevation. Much of the crack system is completely featureless on the outside with laybacking the positive edges the only possible respite from direct offwidthing. Road Warrior ascends the left side of the Black Wall and shares three pitches with Good Evans. Rappel from the first set of bolt anchors you come across when you reach the Black Wall. After the second double rope rappel (might need new webbing), scramble downhill until you are standing in front of the wide, splitter crack.
Pitch 1: We climbed the left-facing flake and crack system to its top, 5.7 100'.
Pitch 2: Step left to the crack using a narrow foot ledge. Climb the wide crack for over 100' to a belay ledge with a good bolt, fixed nut, and ring piton you probably don't want to tie into. It is not a bad idea to have a large piece left for this belay, 5.10 110'.
Pitch 3: Do more offwidthing through steeper but more featured rock. The wide stuff ends and some seams and ledges lead up to a nice stance, 5.10 140'.
Pitch 4: This is the same as Good Evans. Climb up into the right-facing corner below the large roof past a couple pins and traverse out the left side of the overhang to an old bolt on a ledge. 5.10 50'.
Pitch 5: Continue on easy ground to the top.