Working through the crux moves at the top of Broke...
Description
This route is a good way to access Assembly Line. It starts to its right. Scramble up to a ledge and start your typical low-angled easy DT crack (starts as left-facing dihedral) for P1. When I did it, there was a "broken tree" near its base. This pitch is probably a 5.6 or so. To the left are 2 eye bolts for an anchor. Continue from the anchors as P2 becomes a set of dual cracks with some increased difficulty and trickiness towards the end. This pitch ends on a nice ledge, where you can move left about 20 ft or so to access Assembly Line. If you are feeling comfortable at the good stances, the second can do a bit of modified simul-climbing (clipping to the leader's pieces occasionally) to do this as a psuedo single pitch climb.
Like many DT climbs, there is no move as difficult as the route's rating. I didn't even think that Broken Tree was too sustained as there were several good rest stances. That being said, the climbing was enjoyable.
Protection
Like most other DT routes, bring at least 2 sets of nuts and some cams in the blue Metoulius to 2.5 Friend range.
Agreed that BT is not that sustained like a lot of Tower cracks and it does have some good rest stances but I would say it has a definite crux at the top and is 10b. The first pitch makes for a nice moderate 5.6 route of its own.
A must do for all who visit. The moves seem no harder than the crux of Walt Bailey and much easier than Tulgey Wood, Burning Daylight, 1st pitch of Carols Crack or the Belle Fourche Buttress.
Broken tree is 5.10b, it is not 5.9. If you want to lead 5.9 Try solar, walt bailey or assembly line. Assembly line is hard if you dont have good crack climbing skills. If you have good crack climbing skills it is really fun.
I dont want people to be misinformed by individual enteries on this web site, it is very common for climbs to be underrated in the northern hills/spearfish canyon, this trend should not extend to the tower.
Broken tree has some loose rock! There is a flake with chalk all over it that sounds like a bongo drum. By careful when passing it, you can avoid this LOOSE FLAKE by grabbing a solid edge under the loose flake. A pop gets you to the next solid finger lock.
My understanding of Tower grades is in direct contrast to your statement. The YDS system as it applies to routes at DT reflect the single hardest move, ie. a 5.10b route like broken tree has at least one move of 5.10b
Your suggesting of simuclimbing the route can put the leader in danger of a big fall.
This route has great moves, gear and rests. The rests may make it seem easier than 5.10b.
I disagree with john walker's statement that Devil's Tower routes are graded by the difficulty of the hardest move. Devil's Tower, along with Indian Creek, UT, is the epitome of an endurance-based rating system.
For example, El Matador doesn't have a single move harder than 5.9 (or easier than 5.9); you'd be hard pressed to find a move harder than 10a on Mr. Clean; McCarthy West Face is characterized by repeated 10/10+ stemming cruxes without rest. All of these routes, however, are rated between 10+ and solid-11... and rightfully so! Endurance is a real factor affecting the difficulty of a climb.
Broken Tree, however, is a 10b route with a 10b crux, IMO.
ya ya bla bla. Thanks for the great send off Curt, have fun out there. I do think that Broken Tree is easier than MAC WEST, however they are both rated 5.10b. Whats important here? I feel the most important thing any climber can do is to know and follow the rules currently in place. I'm not trying to kiss the proverbial ass of any land manager but the days of renegade climbers with power drills, chisels, guns, chainsaws, ect. doing as they please is detrimental to climbing as a whole. It is everyones responsibility to know and follow the rules as they exist. If you don't you are risking access to the resource or intense regulation and fees associated with climbing, am I wrong?
Coward,What about the Tinton trail? I rode my bike through the woods where many followed. Is that illegal? My personal ethic in regard to trail building does not allow for use of hand tools.
By John Gunnels From: Gillette, WY Apr 8, 2006 rating: 5.10b
9?... 10b?... who really cares... it's BEAUTIFUL...
This climb rocks, I love the finger locks at the end of the climb which is the crux, its a gorgous climb, and as long as you can climb a 10 dont worry about how hard it is, the climb is well worth it
By Joshua Merriam From: Boulder, CO Sep 5, 2007 rating: 5.9+
I did not think any of the finger lock moves was harder than 5.9
It is less than vertical. There are plenty of feet. The locks are solid. 5.9 finger locks are possible under these circumstances, right?
East and Northeast Buttress Approach
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