Neuromancer 

got lucky as hell and on-sighted this in july!

Is the right arete on? Or do you go straight up the face without the crack on the left or arete (direct bolt line)? I did it basically laying back the blunt arete with one hand, crimping with the other.

The older Ruckamn guide says that the arete is "off".

Arete off!!! lame! If I can reach it within the bolt line it is ON! that route is WAY contrived if you don't use the arete. IMO.

If the arete is off, this climb doesn't seem like it would be as much fun. But definately harder - as I couldn't figure out the lower face moves; and used the arete ala "Fat Albert". Fun climb

spent some time on this don't need to use the arret the moves are there if you can find / stay on them

I don't know about avoiding the first arete, but if you avoid the upper left arete and go strait up the face this thing is quite difficult. Hence the rating I put on it.