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Neuromancer

5.11a, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 89 votes
FA: Nelson, Oaks
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Pentapitch Area
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. DetailsDrop down

Description

Neuromancer climbs the slick slabs just left of Pentapitch, and it looks deceivingly easy. It starts hard and eases up a bit after the 2nd bolt.

Protection

Neuromancer requires 6 draws And 1-2 small pieces are optional.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

From the top
[Hide Photo] From the top
Rud following the finish
[Hide Photo] Rud following the finish

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] got lucky as hell and on-sighted this in july! Mar 23, 2005
[Hide Comment] Is the right arete on? Or do you go straight up the face without the crack on the left or arete (direct bolt line)? I did it basically laying back the blunt arete with one hand, crimping with the other. Sep 13, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] The older Ruckamn guide says that the arete is "off". Sep 13, 2005
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
[Hide Comment] If the arete is off, this climb doesn't seem like it would be as much fun. But definately harder - as I couldn't figure out the lower face moves; and used the arete ala "Fat Albert". Fun climb May 12, 2006
john gilchrist
sLC, utah
[Hide Comment] spent some time on this don't need to use the arret the moves are there if you can find / stay on them Jun 8, 2006
Joseph Kolnik
Holladay, UT
  5.11b/c
[Hide Comment] I don't know about avoiding the first arete, but if you avoid the upper left arete and go strait up the face this thing is quite difficult. Hence the rating I put on it. Aug 13, 2008
[Hide Comment] This climb is really fun! That being said, it kicked my ass. (On TR!) I "climbed" the beginning 3 different ways. Arete on definitely seemed the most feesible. Straight up the face is really hard with no hands and greasy feet. Using the crack to the left is significantly easier, prob more like 5.10a. Jun 20, 2009
Petz Pretz
Salt Lake City
[Hide Comment] Smear smear and smear again...sometimes no hands... Sep 2, 2009
[Hide Comment] I climbed this route in possibly the poorest style imaginable and found it to be enjoyable. Far more exciting than the 5.7 first pitch of Penta.

Jack's 5.9 version, as best as I can remember it:
(easiest with half ropes and a long reach)

Up the right facing dihedral reaching to the left to clip the first 2 bolts as you go up. Shamelessly protect the first clip with a cam in the dihedral like 5 feet up.

After the second bolt, move left onto the face with what I think was a slab move that unabashedly involved using the tree as much as possible.

From there move left of the bolt line up to a shallow discontinuous crack system. Reaching far right onto the face to clip 2 of the 3 remaining bolts. Some small placements available in the crack system for your left rope.

Sloper move to the right back onto the face to clip the final bolt. After that an exciting finishing move utilizing the undercling flake. Jun 7, 2019
Ryan Wood
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] Tried this today, going to have to go back and work out the sequence and tick holds, which I hate doing. There’s a blank section after bolt 1 that is definitely 5.11-something slab, even by Yosemite standards.

Onsighting this without the arete or cracks would be impressive, to say the least. Oct 23, 2020
[Hide Comment] here we go again! folks the climb has changed since the 1st assent. some of stuff that made the straight up route what it was, started to flake off , during the assent. The right arete is ok. enjoy!! However, the left arete higher up is a NO NO. Suck it up and enjoy the climb, thats what it there for. Lenny Nelson. Aug 27, 2022