Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Central Wall
Show routes:
Select route...
Alice in Banana Land 
All the Nasties 
Banana Patch 
Bitchin Chimney 
Brain Dead 
Cowboyography 
Divine Wind / All the Nasties 
Hueco Syndrome 
Lunacy 
Lunar Abstract 
Malice In Bucketland 
Sea of Holes 
Uriah's Heap 
Walking on the Moon 
Window Pain 

Divine Wind / All the Nasties 

5.8+ R

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 250 feet
Views: 169 page views

Submitted By: susan peplow on Oct 17, 2007


Add Photo  Add Comment 
You and this route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Some areas require a guide.

BETA PHOTO: Overview of the Malice/Nasties area.


Description 

From the top of the Malice Boulder, this route is located on the shoulder immediately to the right of Paul Bunyon Chimney.

P1 Climb well featured rock as you angle up and right towards Urinal Ledge to 2 bolt anchor.

P2 First bolt off of Urinal Ledge is to the left and up about 6 feet. Follow featured rock up to the headwall, wandering right past a rusted 1/4" bolt, and then continue without gear to a large ledge at the base of a few short cracks. You can traverse further right on this pitch and start clipping the bolts of Brain Dead/All The Nasties, or move left off the belay and pick up some mystery bolts that randomly appear.

P3 is 18' of 2" hand crack to reach summit via 5.5 climbing. Use gear and natural features to set anchor.

Walk off to climbers left towards Laguna Prieta. Be sure to scramble down to a break in the wall before reaching the lagoon. Continue back across toward the Front Side and Lunch Rocks.

Note: Descent can take as long as 20 minutes even if you know where you are going.


Location 

Divine Wind by the guidebooks description may not exist. This route (Divine Wind II?) starts outside of the chimney on the shoulder of the formation. I did not see any bolts or routes that were starting up inside the chimney.


Protection 

Pitch 1 - 4 bolts plus 2 bolt anchor @ Urinal Ledge.

Pitch 2 - 2 bolts, one right off the belay, the other higher up, small, and rusted.

Pitch 3 - short and easy 2" handcrack to summit.

Make your own anchor using 1" cams and/or slung features.



Photos of Divine Wind / All the Nasties Slideshow Add Photo
Starting moves just outside the Paul Bunyon chimney.

Starting moves just outside the Paul Bunyon chimne...

Near the anchor at the top of the first pitch

Near the anchor at the top of the first pitch

Russ starting the second pitch and wondering where it goes.

Russ starting the second pitch and wondering where...

Russ higher on the second pitch, looking for bolts.

Russ higher on the second pitch, looking for bolts...

If you are lucky, you might find this time bomb before you run it out to the next anchor.

If you are lucky, you might find this time bomb be...

The easy hand crack that is the last pitch

The easy hand crack that is the last pitch


Comments on Divine Wind / All the Nasties Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Oct 17, 2007
rating: 5.8+ R

This is a pretty good route if you like being off route and way way runout. It appears we went directly between All the Nasties and Brain Dead on the second pitch. I would suggest trying to pickup either of those bolts lines and following them instead of the one rusted bolt option I used. The climbing is pretty good though.